Table of Contents

Introduction ix

PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1

Chapter 1 Background Information 3
Geography 3, Climate 4, Population 6, Administration 7, Government 7, Politics 8, International relations 10, Economy 11

Chapter 2 The Icelanders 15
History 15, People 27, Language 30, Beliefs 31, Culture 34

Chapter 3 Natural History 43
Earth 43, Air 45, Fire 47, Water 48, Flora 51, Fauna 53

Chapter 4 Practical Information 69
When to visit 69, Highlights 70, Suggested itineraries 71, Tourist information 73, Tour operators 74, Red tape 75, Embassies and consulates 76, Getting there and away 77, Health 81, Safety 83, What to take 87, Money 91, Budgeting 92, Getting around 93, Accommodation 103, Eating and drinking 108, Public holidays 113, Shopping 114, Activities 114, Arts and entertainment 118, Media and communications 119, Business 121, Cultural etiquette 121, Velkomin! 122

PART TWO THE GUIDE 125

Chapter 5 Reykjavík 127
History 128, Getting there and away 131, Getting around 135, Tourist information 139, Tour operators 139, Where to stay 139, Where to eat and drink 151, Entertainment and nightlife 159, Shopping 163, Other practicalities 165, What to see and do 166, Natural Reykjavík 187, Greater Reykjavík 192

Chapter 6 Reykjanes 203
Getting around 203, Keflavík International Airport (KEF) 204, Reykjanesbær 205, Vogar 207, Garður 207, Blue Lagoon 208, Grindavík 210, Reykjanestá 211, Eldey 212, Krýsuvík 213, Trekking in Reykjanes 213

Chapter 7 Suðurland (South Iceland) 214
Getting around 214, Thingvellir National Park 214, Hveragerði 221, Gullfoss 222, Geysir 224, Skálholt 225, Laugarvatn 226, Selfoss 227, Vestmannaeyjar (The Westmann Islands) 229, Mt Hekla (1,491m) 240, Thjórsárdalur 242, Landmannalaugar 242, Hvolsvöllur 246, Skógar 247, Thórsmörk 248, Vík 250, Kirkjubæjarklaustur 251, Lakagígar 252

Chapter 8 Vesturland (West Iceland) 253
Getting there and around 253, Hvalfjörður 254, Akranes 256, Borgarfjörður 259, Borgarnes 260, The saga circle 262, Húsafell 263, Southern shore 263, Snæfellsnes 265, Snæfellsjökull National Park 265, Ólafsvík 271, Grundarfjörður 271, Bjarnahöfn 273, Stykkishólmur 273, Búðardalur 276

Chapter 9 Vestfirðir (The West Fjords) 277
Getting there and away 280, Getting around 281, Ísafjörður 281, Vigur 286, Æðey 287, Bolungarvík 287, Suðureyri 288, Flateyri 289, Thingeyri 290, Arnarfjörður 291, Bíldudalur 294, Patreksfjörður 294, Látrabjarg 296, Around Látrabjarg 298, Vatnsfjörður 299, Breiðafjörður 301, Flatey 302, Reykhólar 305, Strandir 306

Chapter 10 Norðurland vestra (The Northwest) 313
Getting there and around 313, Vatsnes 313, Húnafjörður 317, Vatnsdalur 317, Blönduós 318, Skagafjörður 319, Sauðárkrókur 319, Drangey 321, Varmahlíð 321, Hólar 323, Hófsos 325, Siglufjörður 326, Ólafsfjörður 328, Dalvík 329, Hrísey 330

Chapter 11 Norðurland eystra (The Northeast) 331
Getting around 331, Eyjafjörður 331, Akureyri 332, Glerárdalur 352, Eyjafjarðarsveit 352, Í Fjörðum 354, Grímsey 355, Kolbeinsey 364, Thingeyjarsveit 365, Goðafoss 365, Laugar 366, Mývatn 367, Beyond Mývatn 377, Húsavík 377, Tjörnes 381, Kelduhverfi 382, Jökulsárgljúfur National Park 383, Melrakaslétta 389, Kópasker 390, Raufarhöfn 391, Thórshöfn 392, Sauðanes 393, Langanes 393

Chapter 12 Austurland (East Iceland) 395
Vopnafjörður 395, Möðrudalur 398, Egilsstaðir 399, Fljótsdalur 401, Hallormsstaður 403, Vesturöræfi 404, The East Fjords 405, Borgarfjörður 405, Seyðisfjörður 406, Reyðarfjörður 409, Eskifjörður 410, Neskaupstaður 411, Fáskrúðsfjörður 412, Stöðvarfjörður 412, Breiðdalsvík 412, Djúpivogur 413, Papey 414, Vatnajökull 415, Höfn 417, Lónsöræfi 420, Suðursveit 420, Jökulsárlón 421, Skaftafell National Park 422

Chapter 13 Hálendið (The Highlands) 429
Getting around 430, Kjölur 432, Hveravellir 434, Kerlingarfjöll 434, Sprengisandur 435, Mt Askja (1,510m) 436, Mt Herðubreið (1,682m) 437, Kverkfjöll 437

Appendix 1 Language 439

Appendix 2 Further Information 448

Index 451

About the Author

Andrew Evans has travelled widely in Iceland. Author of Bradt's Ukraine, he currently maintains a nomadic existence as National Geographic's Digital Explorer.

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