Introduction. Menswear through the ages: Menswear chronology; Introduction to social and historical contexts; Military dress and uniforms; Menswear's influence on womenswear; 20th-century influences; Counter-culture dressing; Interview: Heritage Research; Interview: Lou Dalton. Sartorial traditions: The suit; The sartorialists; British tailoring; Italian tailoring; American tailoring; Shirts; Trousers and pants; Neck ties; Undergarments; Shoes; Interview: Dashing Tweeds; Interview: Stowers Bespoke. The sportswear revolution: A brief history of sportswear; Denim; Active sportswear; Interview: Mottainai; Interview: Ijin. Menswear by design: Research sources for menswear design; Design development; Fashion Illustration; Portfolios; Interview: Giles Price; Interview: Peter Jensen. Conclusion. Bibliography. Further resources. Index. Acknowledgements and picture credits. Working with ethics.
An introduction to menswear fashion that considers a range of social and historical contexts that have served to define and redefine menswear through the ages.
John Hopkins worked as a womenswear designer at Jaeger and Burberry for over ten years. His teaching career began in the United States, where he served as chair of Fashion at Savannah Colege of Art and Design, before taking up his current position as head of Fashion and Textiles at Winchester School of Art, UK.
Visually beautiful and very informative. I plan on adding this book
to my student list of must look at Menswear resource materials.
*Mary Wilson, Fashion Institute of Technology, USA*
This book is a well-crafted collection of everything you need to
know about menswear ... The design development, sketchbook and
portfolio pages promote creativity and individuality and the
interviews portray menswear design as both creatively engaging and
attainable. There is a good mix of all the different aspects
involved in the design process, well laid out and easy to navigate
for students to consider and digest.
*Krystyna Kolowska, Nottingham Trent University, UK*
A recent addition to the AVA Basics Fashion Design series is
Menswear by John Hopkins. This is a fantastic little book which
belies its size, covering a tremendous amount of ground. Four clear
sections are crammed with useful and easy to read information,
creating a comprehensive platform for study in this specialist
area. The first section, Menswear through the ages, begins with a
clear chronology, which tracks the key developments of men's dress
from the ancient world through the ages to the 20th century. An
introduction to social and historical contexts is then set out,
before key aspects of menswear are explored, such as the importance
of military dress and uniforms, influences from the 20th century,
counter-culture dressing, and also menswear's impact on womenswear
design. Section 2 of the book looks closely at the important items
found in formal menswear; the suit is explored - and the
differences between British, American and Italian tailoring are
explained. The section also analyses key pieces in detail, such as
shirts, trousers, ties and underwear. The sportswear revolution is
dealt with in section 3, with a brief history of sportswear, both
for fashion and also for active sports. This section looks at the
importance of denim, outlining influential brands in this hugely
important area. The final section covers many aspects of the design
process, such as research sources for menswear design, design
development, fashion illustration and includes inspirational
sketchbook examples and portfolio pages. Career profiles are
featured as interviews throughout the book, and reveal to the
reader the scope of diverse career possibilities within this
discipline. Profiles include established designer Peter Jensen,
brands Heritage Research (Russ Gator and Daniel Savory) and Dashing
Tweeds, (Guy Hills and Kirsty McDougall), as well as independent
English jeans-maker, Ijin, created by Philip Goss. This book is an
invaluable asset to menswear students - and with its clarity of
content and comprehensive, accessible format it is also
tremendously useful to anyone interested in the wider development
of fashion and clothing.
*Joyce Thornton, Arts Thread blog, October 2011*
This little book, the seventh in the Basics Fashion Design series
(see also Hopkins's Fashion Drawing, CH, Dec'10, 48-1862), is
packed with information on all aspects of the menswear industry.
Not sure what bespoke means? The definition appears here. Hopkins
(Univ. of Southampton, UK) emphasizes both the American and British
menswear businesses, with some information on the Italian and
Japanese industries. Four chapters-- Menswear through the Ages,
Sartorial Traditions, The Sportswear Revolution, and Menswear by
Design - provide historical background and a modern look at all
aspects of design. The color photos and clear illustrations support
the text. Interviews with designers, illustrators, and owners of
tailoring/bespoke firms provide good insight into the business.
Included are a brief but useful bibliography and a list of trade
exhibitions, which lead to other resources. The detailed table of
contents and full index will be useful to students and librarians.
This volume would be a good starting point for doing research on
menswear, and faculty may find the lists of firms useful in
organizing study tours. Libraries supporting any kind of fashion
design or clothing construction curriculum should consider
purchasing this work. Summing Up: Recommended. Lower- and
upper-level undergraduates, two-year technical program students,
graduate students, researchers, and practitioners.
*Choice review, N. A. Mackey, Missouri State University, US*
A very interesting book ... I like the pictures, the fashion
forward design and the insights this book provides on the menswear
and the fabrics used ... a great resource.
*Cathy Starr, Missouri State University, USA*
I am finding the first three chapters an amazing resource ... I
love the ethical notes!
*Susan Ashdown, Cornell University, USA*
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