Introduction
1: Brunch History
2: Brunch Around the World
3: Brunch at Home
4: Brunch Away from Home
5: Brunch in Popular Culture and the Future of Brunch
Bibliography
Farha Ternikar, is an associate professor of Sociology at Le Moyne College where she teaches Food and Culture, Gender and Society and the Sociology of Food. She has authored several articles on ethnicity and immigrant identity in the Journal of Ethnic Studies, International Journal of Contemporary Sociology, and Sociology Compass, and most recently her research was included in the 2012-2013 exhibit Lunch Hour NY: the New York Public Library.
Though the meal first appeared in America at Begue’s, a restaurant
in New Orleans, in the late 1890s, according to Ternikar the meal
is truly a global event served in Germany, Turkey, India, and
China, and often has an 'anything goes' approach to menus for an
event that’s more about kinship and conversation than a rigid meal.
Ternikar . . . include[s] a handful of recipes. . . .She prefers to
focus on the social aspect of the meal as opposed to defining the
classic brunch. It’s an admirable approach. . . .The result is a
book best consumed à la carte.
*Publishers Weekly*
As Ternikar points out, what distinguishes breakfast from brunch is
that breakfast inaugurates a workday, but brunch celebrates the
weekend. Chinese enjoyed morning dim sum for centuries, but brunch
appears to have arisen in England at the end of the nineteenth
century as an outgrowth of hearty late breakfasts offered to
hunters returning from an early morning shoot. The novel meal
spread quickly to America and became a New Orleans tradition. New
York caught on to the practice, and it was at the Waldorf Hotel (or
Delmonico’s) where eggs Benedict, now the iconic brunch dish, first
appeared. Post-Prohibition Americans typically eschewed daytime
drinking until they developed a thirst for now-classic brunch
cocktails on the order of the mimosa and the Bloody Mary. Home
brunches caught on in the 1930s as a way for tyro cooks to
entertain without the fuss of preparing guests a full dinner.
Friday brunch has lately invaded upscale Muslim communities.
*Booklist*
If you love brunch like Ternikar does, you'll find the book is easy
to digest and full of flavorful morsels. It's not dry or brittle
(or overly academic).
*The Post-Standard/Stars*
Brunch: A History is another interesting text in The Meal Series in
which author Farha Ternikar addresses a meal of more recent history
than breakfast, lunch, or supper. Ternikar has provided a
descriptive analysis of brunch.... Brunch: A History is a
well-researched and fascinating study about a meal that has
received, up until now, very little attention. Ternikar has
integrated black and white photographs of brunch dishes throughout
her text, and she has provided well-organized endnotes, an index
and a substantial bibliography. I especially applaud Ternikar’s
inclusion of several wonderful brunch recipes, which begs the
question: what’s the good of a food study without a few
recipes?
*Digest: A Journal of Foodways & Culture*
This engaging, informative book traces the history of brunch from
its origins as a hunt breakfast for the British elite to the
hipster meal par excellence satirized in the television program
Portlandia. But the author’s scope extends beyond the
Anglo-American world to cover brunch in Asia, South Asia, and the
Middle East. Her impressive array of research sources includes
magazines, cookbooks, movies, music, novels (including ‘chick lit’
and social media) which make for a delightful account of the meal
that has been called one of life’s great pleasures.
*Colleen Taylor Sen, food writer and historian; coauthor/cowriter
of Street Food Around the World: An Encyclopedia of Food and
Culture, Food Culture in India and Curry: A Global History*
Why we eat what we eat when we eat are questions that are not
always tackled together and rarely is the last one the focal point.
In her well-researched and innovative history of brunch, Farha Bano
Ternikar leads us through a fascinating culinary journey that
ripples out globally over the span of more than a century. When
probed through a variety of cultural, social and temporal prisms,
the foods and reasons for selecting them become dislodged from our
mundane menus to become symbolic markers of an engrossing, wider
narrative.
*George Solt, assistant professor of History, New York
University*
What meal is more luxurious than brunch? Sleep in on your days off.
Dine on traditional Eggs Benedict, omelets, or just plain toasted
bagels with a smear. Sip a Bloody Mary or Mimosa. Chat leisurely
with family and friends. Slowly read the newspaper. Don’t want to
read about war, corruption or mayhem? No problem: Pick up Farha
Ternikar’s Brunch: A History— it is a well-documented work that
tells the engrossing story of how this hybrid meal originated,
developed and globalized. It is also an enjoyable read filled with
delightful tidbits, but readers should be forewarned that they may
suffer cravings for cronuts, bangers and mash, hand-crafted rotis,
gluten free quiche, organic waffles, almond croissants, and other
brunch delicacies.
*Andrew F. Smith, culinary historian*
Brunch turns out to be a great story, intricate and full of
surprises. The book takes us out for a rich meal in a fine
restaurant, and also into the intimate ritual of the family at
home. Like the meal itself, Brunch is an eclectic and flexible mix,
relating the history of many things today taken for granted.
*Richard Wilk, distinguished professor emeritus, Indiana
University*
After the hour-long wait for the perfect Eggs Benedict, read
Brunch. Ternikar's fascinating book shows us how the world's newest
mealtime spread across the globe, from Emily Post at Delmonico's to
Dubai. Beyond comfort foods and weekend indulgence lies a powerful
history of class, colonialism, family and home.
*Daniel Bender, professor and Canada Research Chair in Cultural
History, University of Toronto, Digital Evidence Group*
From the breathless enthusiasm of magazine writers and style
editors to the sardonic insults of popular television programs that
mock hipster pretensions, brunch, that quintessentially American
meal, has always evoked strong feelings. Tracing the history of
brunch from its putative origins in English hunt breakfasts, Farha
Ternikar has produced a highly readable and engaging account of
brunch and its global transformations. A meal of the urban middle
and upper classes, brunch is often associated with decadence and
leisure, and has come to be the meal of choice for
recently-invented holidays such as Mother’s Day. From a
twentieth-century meal linked to genteel entertaining and relaxed
weekend consumption, the cosmopolitan appropriation of brunch in
the twenty-first century takes on diverse global forms such as the
famously lavish brunches of Dubai, sushi brunches in Mumbai, and
even 'le brunch’ in Paris. Food practices are always inflected by
questions of gender, class, and power; Brunch provides compelling
examples of that nexus.
*Kathleen D. Morrison, University of Chicago*
Farha Ternikar beautifully details everything you ever wanted to
know about brunch, from origins to adaptations, music to
television, demonstrating how, despite global changes in our lives,
the form remains a significant way to mark social and edible
moments.
*Alice Julier, director of Food Studies, Chatham University*
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