Table of Contents

Preface

A Note

Before We Begin: Key Terms

1 Introduction: the Five Rules of Crack Climbing

Meet the master: Beth Rodden

2 Finger Cracks

Meet the master: Lynn Hill

Meet the master: Jerry Moffatt

3 Hand Cracks

Meet the master: Barbara Zangerl

4 Fist Cracks

Meet the master: Peter Croft

5 Offwidth Cracks

Meet the master: Randy Leavitt

Meet the master: Mason Earle

Meet the master: Alex Honnold

6 Squeeze Chimneys

Meet the master: Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll

7 Chimneys

Meet the master: Hazel Findlay

8 Stems

Meet the master: Nico Favresse

9 Roof Cracks

Meet the master: Tom Randall

10 Placing Gear

Meet the master: Ron Fawcett

11 Equipment and Protection

Meet the master: Jean-Pierre ‘Peewee’ Ouellet

12 Taping

Meet the master: Will Stanhope

Acknowledgements

Index

About the Author

Drawn to climbing by the challenge and adventure, Pete Whittaker seeks out pioneering first ascents and revels in pushing his personal limits. Having grown up in the Peak District surrounded by the area’s world-famous gritstone crags, he has been climbing since the age of six and has gone on to rack up an impressive mix of climbing achievements on a variety of rock types and styles across the globe. As one half of the Wide Boyz duo with Tom Randall, Pete has become synonymous with hard crack climbing. He has taken techniques learnt on his local crags and has applied them with great effect all over the world, most notably on the huge roof cracks in the desert areas of Utah, and on the big walls of Yosemite.

In 2014 Pete flashed the classic Freerider (5.12d) on El Capitan, Yosemite, and in 2016 he became the first person to make a solo-free ascent of El Capitan in under 24 hours. He followed this up in 2018 with a single-day solo link-up of both El Capitan and Half Dome.

On his local gritstone, Pete’s major first ascents include Dynamics of Change (E9 7a), Bigger Baron (E10 7a) and Sleepy Hollow (E10 7a). Further afield, he has made the first ascents of Century Crack (5.14b), the world’s hardest offwidth crack, The Millennium Arch (5.14a), and Lamb of God (5.14b), all in Canyonlands, Utah.

Pete’s hard crack credentials also include the first ascents of Crown of Thorns (5.14a) and Cruzifix (5.14a), repeats of the legendary Cobra Crack (5.14b) in Squamish, Canada – considered the hardest finger crack in the world at the time – and Recovery Drink (F8c+) in Jossingfjord, Norway – his hardest crack to date. In 2019 he flashed Ronny Medelsvensson (F8b), also in Jossingfjord, most likely the hardest ever flash of a pure crack route. He was also the first person to flash a 5.13 offwidth with his first-go ascent of Belly Full of Bad Berries (5.13a/b) in Indian Creek, Utah, in 2011. Pete believes he has only scratched the surface of what is possible with hard crack climbing.