Table of Contents

Biographical Note.

Introductory.

Applying the Metric System to Practical Pattern Designing.

One. Measurements and Block Patterns.

Two. The Bodice Block (bodice Analysis).

Three. Using the Bodice Block (Introduction to Pattern Designing).

Four. Simple Pattern Designing.

FIve Yoke Styles.

Six. Dart Manipulation.

Seven. Sleeves.

Eight. Designing Sleeve Patterns.

Nine. Collars.

Ten. Necklines, Revers, Rever-collars, Capes.

Eleven. Skirts.

Twelve. One-Piece Dress Foundation.

Thirteen. Designing Skirt Patterns (Gores).

Fourteen. Fullness in Skirts: Pleats, Folds, Gathers.

Fifteen. Flares.

Sixteen. Circular Patterns.

Appendix One: The Simplified Bodice Block.

Appendix Two. Adjustments to Sleeve.

Abbreviations and Reference Letters.

Fashion Supplement.

Blocks for Casual Wear.

Dartless Bodice Block (with Shoulder/Bust Dart Removed).

Loose Fitting Shirt Block.

Loose Fitting Jacket Block.

Simple Kimono and Raglan Blocks.

Shoulder Pad Allowances.

Cuff and Sleeve Openings.

Pockets.

Wrap and Strap (or Placket) Openings.

Halter Necklines.

Index.

About the Author

Natalie Bray trained in Paris while connected with a Court dressmaking business in London. The techniques she pioneered and perfected revolutionised dress pattern designing. Her teaching has had a profound influence on design, production and education.

Ann Haggar, who wrote the Fashion Supplement, has many years’ experience both in industry and in education, and combines her writing with teaching at St Martin’s School of Art and with couture.