Table of Contents

List of Illustrations
Notes on Contributors

1. Introduction: Fashioning the Afropolis. Histories, Materialities and Aesthetic Practices (Kerstin Pinther, Kristin Kastner)

PART I: Histories and Archives

2. Woman in a White Tobe: Activism, Nostalgia and a Viral Image in Sudan (Marie Grace Brown, University of Kansas, USA)

3. Afro-Brazilian Dress Modes in Family Photo Archives in Lagos (Frank A. O. Ugiomoh, University of Port Harcourt, Nigeria)

4. Tracing Threads of Time and Space in Conceptual Fashion Design in Lagos (Alexandra Weigand, Ludwig Maximilian University Munich, Germany)

Visual Essay: The Transformation of Ndop Fabric from its Production in (Pre)colonial Artisan Centres to Contemporary Urban Fashion Design (Michaela Oberhofer, Museum Rietberg, Zurich, Germany)

PART II: Materialities and Aesthetic Practices

5. Born to Shine: Fashionable Practices of Refining and Wearing Textiles in Dakar (Kristin Kastner, Ludwig Maximilian University Munich, Germany)

6. Looking East: Boharaba Vogue and the Sinonization of Fashion and Beauty in Douala (Basile Ndjio, University of Douala, Cameroon, Central Africa)

7. Between Presence and Evocation: Fashion Design, Photography and Place-Making in Lagos (Kerstin Pinther, Ludwig Maximilian University, Munich, Germany)

Visual Essay: Cairo Ascending (Rana EINemr with Alaa Abo El Goud)

PART III: Bodies and Media

8. Trans-Worlding: Fela Kuti's Sartorial Rebellion and Pan-African Influence (Nomusa Makhubu, University of Cape Town, South Africa)

9. Our Tribe: The Sartists' Portrayal of Post-Subculture in Johannesburg (Cher Potter, London College of Fashion and V&A, London, UK)

10. Africanfuturist Dakar in Selly Raby Kane's Designs (Enrica Picarelli)

Visual Essay: From Second Hand in Lome to Second Life in Paris (Andrew Esiebo, artist and founding member of Black Box, Nigeria)

11. Epilogue (Victoria L. Rovine, University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, USA)

Bibliography
Index

Promotional Information

Explores fashion, design, dress, photography, and the body in cities such as Lagos, Johannesburg, Dakar, and Douala, offering a fresh perspective on global fashion and its interplay with urban culture in sub-Saharan Africa and highlighting the continent's rich sartorial heritage and vibrant fashion scene.

About the Author

Kerstin Pinther is Professor of Arts and Material Cultures of Africa in the Department of Art History at Ludwig Maximilian University, Munich, Germany.

Kristin Kastner is Lecturer and post-doctoral researcher at the Ludwig Maximilian University in Munich, Germany.

Basile Ndjio is Professor of Anthropology, University of Douala, Cameroon, Central Africa, and Senior Research Fellow at Freie Universität Berlin, Germany.

Reviews

So few books focus on the influential and visually stunning fashion culture of the African continent. I love this book for its mix of scholarly study and rich visuals. It helps push past stereotypes we hold in the west on what African fashion is.
*Fashionista's 31 Best Books Fashion People Read, 2022 - Elizabeth Way, The Museum at FIT, US*

In the long process of decolonizing fashion curricula, Fashioning the Afropolis will be a useful reference for fashion scholars and students alike: it is a rich and diverse volume about contemporary and historical fashion on the African continent, backed by thorough empirical and historical research.
*Journal of Design History*

A brilliant contribution to the study of fashion in urban Africa, which will inspire designers, artists, and researchers in Africa and its Diaspora.
*Elisha Renne, University of Michigan, USA*

Fashioning the Afropolis is a revelation. Reclaiming fashion from its European history, these wide-ranging and generous essays about African cities recast clothing in surprising ways. The verve and panache of today’s fashion scholarship is here on vivid display.
*Shane White, co-author of Stylin’: African American Expressive Culture from its Beginnings to the Zoot Suit*

This fascinating collection breaks new ground by framing fashion as a powerful expressive form in urban Africa. The contributions offer compelling insights as to why and how fashion is a force shaping to why and how fashion is a force shaping the city.
*Joanna Grabski, Arizona State University, USA*