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Table of Contents

Acknowledgements vi Introduction vii PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography 3, Climate 5, Natural history and conservation 5, History and government 10, Economy 33, People 37, Language 39, Religion 40, Education 47, Culture 47 Chapter 2 Practical Information 53 When to visit 53, Highlights 53, Suggested itineraries 55, Tour operators 55, Red tape 55, Nigerian embassies and high commissions 57, Getting there and away 57, Health 60, Safety 73, Focus on specific groups 77, What to take 78, Money 81, Budgeting 83, Getting around 83, Tourist information and maps 90, Accommodation 92, Eating and drinking 93, Public holidays and festivals 102, Shopping and bargaining 102, Business hours 103, Photography 103, Media and communications 104, Cultural etiquette 107, Travelling positively 110 PART TWO THE GUIDE 113 Chapter 3 Lagos 115 History 116, Getting there and away 119, Orientation 122, Getting around 124, Where to stay 127, Where to eat and drink 131, Entertainment and nightlife 137, Shopping 139, Sport 142, Other practicalities 143, What to see and do 147 Chapter 4 Southwest Nigeria 167 Abeokuta 167, Ibadan 171, Ife 177, Omo Forest Reserve 180, Oshogbo 181, Oyo 188, Benin City 192, Okomu National Park 198CHAP 3CHAP 6CHAP Thumbnails Master Chapter 5 Southeastern Nigeria 199 Onitsha and Asaba 199, Enugu 201, Umuahia 203, Aba 205, Port Harcourt 206, The Niger Delta 213, Calabar 215, Cross River National Park 227, Rhoko Forest 229, Afi Mountain Drill Ranch 230, Obudu Cattle Ranch 232, Ikom 233 Chapter 6 Central Nigeria 235 Abuja 235, Lokoja 252, Makurdi 257, Jos 259, West of Abuja 266, Kob Amusement Centre 268, Lake Kainji National Park 269 Chapter 7 East and Northeast Nigeria 271 Bauchi 271, Yankari National Park 274, Gombe 277, Yola and Jimeta 277, Gashaka-Gumpti National Park 278, Mambilla Plateau 280, Maiduguri 280, Around Maiduguri 285 Chapter 8 Northern Nigeria 291 Kaduna 292, Zaria 298, Kano 305, Katsina 320, Gusau 322, Sokoto 324 Appendix 1 Language 329 Appendix 2 Glossary of Nigerian Words and Phrases 333 Appendix 3 Further Information 335 Index 341

About the Author

Based in Cape Town, Lizzie Williams has travelled the length and breadth of Africa as a tour leader and as a guidebook author. Mark Shenley is a photographer whose work regularly appears in publications both in the UK and around the world.


"I am to congratulate you for the important contribution the publication has made to the growing literature on Travel Guides, particularly about Nigeria." - Anthony Adeloye, Librarian for the High Commissioner of Nigeria

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