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Table of Contents


Ancient Information Highways
La Strada del Vino
La Strada della Cucina

Roman Roads
Via Appia-Lazio
Via Salaria-Le Marche
Via Flaminia-Umbria
Via Postumia-Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Via Claudia Augusta-Trentino-Alto Adige
Via Aemilia-Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia
Via Francigena-Piemonte and Valle d'Aosta
Via Aurelia-Liguria and Toscana

Kitchen Road Map: Fundamental Techniques
Basic Recipes, and Ingredients




Via Appia-Lazio

Spiced Ricotta Fritters with Smoked Maple Syrup
Fried Rabbit Livers with Pickled Vegetables and Spicy Mayonnaise
Crispy Pig Ears with Pickled Green Tomatoes, Jalapeno, and Radish
Spring Vegetable Vignarola Salad
Bucatini with Nettles, Pancetta, and Black Pepper
Whole Wheat Fettuccine with Funghi Trifolati and Spring Garlic
Braised Oxtail in Cabbage Leaves with Cranberry Beans
Goat Cheese and Ricotta Crespelle with Orange-Caramel Sauce
Spring Lamb
Lamb Ragu with Semolina Gnocchi and Pecorino Pepato
Lamb Belly
Lamb Loin and Rack with Gaeta Olive Sauce
Leg of Lamb Wrapped in Lamb Mousse and Swiss Chard
Steamed Artichokes
Pickled Swiss Chard Stems

Via Salaria-Le Marche

Fluke Crudo, Sausage-Stuffed Olives, and Citrus
Fried Surf Clams with Agrodolce and Onion, Fennel, and Cherry Pepper Salad
Baked Anchovies
Passatelli en Brodo
Lasagna Vincisgrassi
Rabbit a la Villa Bucci
Dried Fruit and Nut Biscotti with Sweet Wine Granita

Via Flaminia-Umbria

Smoked Trout with Warm Potato Salad and Horseradish Gelatina
Chopped Chicken Livers with Wine Gelatina, Carrot Marmellata, and Grilled Bread
Fava Bean Agnolotti with Mashed Black Truffle
Tagliatelle d'Oro with Chicken Livers, Mushrooms, and Black Truffle
Linguine al Cocoa with Venison Ragu
Farro-Stuffed Quail with Chestnuts, Persimmons, and Dandelion Greens
Pistachio Torta with Meyer Lemon Curd, Pistachio Crema, and Brown Butter
Suckling Pig
Crocchette with Pickled Green Rhubarb and Apricots
Legs and Belly with Thyme, Lemon, and Fennel Pollen
Chops with Prosciutto Sauce
Blecs with Suckling Pig Ragu and Rapini
Pickled Rhubarb and Dried Apricots
Prosciutto Sauce

Via Postumia-Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Spaghetti with Shrimp and Tomato Passatina
Sardines in Saor with Peperonata Jam
Asparagus with Lardo-Wrapped Rye Dumplings, Goat Cheese, and Sprouting Greens
Squid Ink Linguine with Braised Squid, Sea Urchin, Broccoli Crema, and Pan Grattato
Farro Pasta with Speck, Green Onions, and Poppy Seeds
Duck Ravioli with Sour Cherries and Candied Pecans
Chocolate Torta with Vanilla Mascarpone
Via Claudia Augusta-Trentino-Alto Adige

Chilled Asparagus Soup with Meyer Lemon Yogurt and Fish Roe
Mustard Spaetzle with Chanterelle Mushrooms and Stridoli
Rye Gnocchi with Savoy Cabbage, Potatoes, and Crispy Speck
Mushroom Risotto
Beer-Braised Pork Cheeks with Escarole
Venison Loin with Parsnips and Huckleberry Vinaigrette
Ricotta Bavarese with Verjus-Poached Rhubarb, Orange Confitura, and Powdered Olive Oil

Via Aemilia-Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia

Fritto Misto
Chestnut-Filled Pasta with Broccoli di Cicco, Guanciale, and Burnt-Orange Sauce
Squash Cappellacci with Medjool Dates, Rosemary Brown Butter, and Saba
Ricotta and Quail Egg Ravioli with Wild Greens and Fontina
Veal and Mortadella Tortellini en Consomme
Bolognese with Egg Noodles
Erbazzone Torta with Braised Greens, Prosciutto Cotto, and Eggs
Pork Milanese, Pickled Cabbage Salad, Anchovy, and Lemon Brown Butter
Buckwheat Polenta Taragna, Rabbit Stufato, Cherry Tomato, and Mimolette
Fried Quince Pies with Truffle Honey and Aged Balsamic

Via Francigena-Piemonte and Valle d'Aosta

Egg "in the Hole" with Mushrooms and Miner's Lettuce
Bone Marrow Sformato with Stuffed Baby Artichokes
Fontina and Mushroom Tortelli with Black Truffle Fonduta
Risotto with Crayfish and Sweetbreads
Savoy Cabbage with Mushrooms, Lardo, and Crispy Prosciutto
Chestnut-Stuffed Veal Breast with Orzotto
Baked Polenta with Beef Cheek Ragu, Eggs, and Fontina
Barolo Beef with Carrots and New Potatoes
Chocolate Souffles with Milk Chocolate Gelato

Via Aurelia-Liguria and Toscana

Baked Ricotta with Cherry Tomatoes, Saba, and Pignoli Granola
Scallop Crudo with Sunchokes, Hibiscus Agrodolce, Almonds, and Cherries
Albacore Tuna Confitura with Panzanella Salad and Anchovies
Beet and Ricotta Pansotti with Walnuts and Ricotta Salata
Tomato-Braised Abalone with Farinata
Smoked Linguine with Clams, Cherry Tomatoes, and Basil Pesto
Ramp Spaghetti with Crab and Sea Urchin Butter
Saffron Trofie with Veal Ragu
Passion Fruit Panna Cotta with Coconut Spuma

About the Author

SHELLY LINDGREN is the wine director and co-owner of both A16 and SPQR. She has received a James Beard nomination for wine service and was named Best New Sommelier by Wine&Spirits. SPQR's executive chef MATTHEW ACCARRINO is the recipient of Star Chefs' San Francisco 2010 Rising Star Award. KATE LEAHY is a freelance writer and the co-author of A16 Food + Wine.


"Shelly Lindgren and Matthew Accarrino have composed a book filled with their inspirations based on Italian regional cuisine and wines. It gives us a powerful insight into what makes SPQR one of San Francisco's favorite restaurants. It makes me wish I lived close by."
-Thomas Keller, The French Laundry

"Shelley Lindgren has done it again. First, there was her restaurant A16 and a stunning cookbook emerged from that still-marvelous restaurant. Then came SPQR. With the remarkable talent of chef Matthew Accarrino, it has become one of San Francisco's
finest restaurants, bar none. If you haven't yet heard of SPQR and Matthew Accarrino, trust me, you soon will. This book shows why."
-Matt Kramer, author and Wine Spectator columnist

"Matthew brings a sense of elegance and refinement to Italian cooking that seems at once natural and yet revelatory. There is a humanistic element to the cooking at SPQR that in concert with Shelley's wine service, creates a memorable and warm experience. I always look forward to returning."
-Christopher Kostow, chef, The Restaurant at Meadowood

"I am a staunch traditionalist when it comes to Italian cuisine, yet I love Matthew Accarrino's modern Italian cooking at SPQR. His food is Italian in spirit but cooked in the region (paese) of California, using local ingredients, contemporary techniques, and infusing the food with soul and sophistication. Shelley Lindgren is my go-to goddess for Italian wine. A charming and delightful educator, she has extensive knowledge of Italian wine making and wine makers. But even more important, she seeks out little known wines from small regional producers. I learn and taste something new with every visit to SPQR."
-Joyce Goldstein, chef, author, and culinary consultant

"With well-thought-out recipes and little known wine pairings, discover a perfect
balance of contemporary flavor and technique with a soulfulness that is respectful of tradition. Through Matthew's passion and experience, SPQR will challenge you to become a better cook!"
-Rick Moonen, executive chef and owner of rm Seafood

Praise for A16: Food + Wine:
"This is a cook's cookbook; it deserves a quiet season filled with long chilly nights, the ideal time to enjoy its gutsy dishes."

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