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Stitched Shibori
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Table of Contents

What is shibori? 6 About this book 8 Shibori tradition 10 Stitch-resist techniques 14 Fabric preparation 15 The stitch-resist process 18 Stitching on a single layer 18 Mokume shibori 20 Blocks and stripes 24 Creating simple pattern 26 Double needles 31 Stitching with binding and capping 32 Capping 34 Oversewing 35 Oversewn shapes 37 Introducing the fold 39 Curves on the fold 40 One fold seam 43 Double fold 44 Shapes on the fold 46 Motif development 48 The versatile grid 55 The stitch grid 58 Folding on the grid 62 Two for the effort of one 65 Machined resist folds 66 Machined resists: dots, stripes and shapes 72 Machined resists using concertina folds 75 Wrapped pattern 82 Itajime shibori 86 Binding and capping to a core 92 Capping with plastic 94 Cores and reserved grounds 95 Chikuwa shibori 98 Dip-dyeing 100 Applying indigo with a pipette 103 Shirokage shibori 104 Applique shibori 108 Hotaru shibori 113 Degumming 116 Knots 118 Buffers 120 Pulling up 122 Creating pattern 124 Pattern in form 125 Traditional karamatsu 126 Takewaku 128 Traditional linked flower 130 Hemp leaf pattern 133 Planning pattern 136 Composite design for pattern 140 Dyes 142 Dipping into magical water: indigo 143 Natural chemical vat 144 Synthetic indigo vat 145 Natural organic vats 146 Indigo dyeing procedure 148 Indigo vat considerations 149 Indigo recipe charts 150 Other useful recipes 151 Indigo dyeing tips 152 Natural dyes 153 Iron rust 158 Cold water fibre-reactive dyes 161 Shibori equipment 166 Health and safety 168 Glossary 169 Gallery 170 Index 175 Biography 176

About the Author

Jane was drawn to indigo and stitch resist when she studied textiles at the West Surrey College of Art and Design, Farnham. Using indigo predominately she has focused on stitch techniques, inventing new stitch formats and incorporating other textile decorative methods with shibori to further enrich surface and pattern quality. A well-respected shibori artist, teacher and speaker, Jane is based in Norfolk, England and has taught and presented her textiles in schools, colleges and textile groups in the UK and overseas. Her work has evolved out of a love of pattern and in 2011 she authored the book 2000 Pattern Combinations: A Step-by-step Guide to Creating Pattern published by Batsford in the UK and by Bunka Shuppan in Japan. Further information can be found on her website: www.callishibori.co.uk

Reviews

Very comprehensive book on many aspects of this craft. At first look the book seemed quite complicated but once I started reading about this fascinating craft I now can't wait to get started. There are chapters on the history of Shibori. Plenty on the different types of stitching and dye patterns and a lovely section about natural dyes and how to recipes for them I would definitely recommend this book to anyone interested in this craft or anyone looking for a different craft to try * Sharon Raglan * Very informative book with lots of photos to guide you through this embroidery craft, I'm looking forward to trying this out for the first time! * Donna Hall * Although on first look the book looks very complicated however after reading the book the instructions are very clear and precise with handy little tips * Jennifer Brain * This book is a very informative & inspiring guide to the Japanese art of Shibori. It is well illustrated both with photos & diagrams. The results are stunning but the book guides you through the processes so that you feel good results are achievable even for a beginner. Shibori does not need a lot of specialist equipment & I think anyone with an interest in textiles would find this a very useful addition to their bookshelf * Nicola Urmenyi * A very technical book, which is also very informative. I would recommend it to students genuinely interested in Shibori and dyeing techniques. There is lots of imagery to inspire and whet the appetite. Written in a somewhat prescriptive manner which helps students to learn the techniques precisely and leaving room for further exploration. As always, excellent photography by Paul Bricknell adds value. Jane Callender brings her many years experience with this technique to bear in a way that will enable much learning to take place, for students of little or no experience and also for those in the know! I love the recipe charts, these make it all much easier to digest. * Valerie Hughes * March 17 Master the art of Japanese stitch-resist dyeing through both traditional and more innovative techniques of stitching and staining fabric. This book guides you through the process starting with detailed explainations of how to create patterns with stitches and offering helpful photos of each finished effect. It contains all the information you need to get started, while its inspiring content ensures that it will remain a fruitful resource as you become an experiened textile artist. * Sew * At first glance I thought this was going to be a little too technical and difficult for a beginner but I was so wrong. There is a section on the fascinating history of the craft, lots of different stitches to try and also details on how to make your own dye recipes. You are guided through each step with diagrams and photos which makes it very easy to follow. Its a very comprehensive book on this subject and I would recommend it to an enthusiastic beginner right through to the more accomplished crafter. * Karen Painter * A beautifully presented book, with lots of information on the history of Shibori.Lovely projects, though not for the complete beginner to embroidery. The techniques are very clearly explained and illustrated , with step by step instruction,Definately a book i will use and reuse multiple times * Jane Johnson * At its simplest, shibori is the art of folding and pleating fabric, so distorting it before immersion in the dyebath. But it is so much more than that and eminent artist Jane Callender, who has devoted her working life to the art of shibori and indigo dyeing, presents, what will surely become, without doubt, a reference work for future generations of devotees of the craft. The book is divided into three sections - technique, pattern and dyeing, each meticulously explored with both lavish photography and highly detailed diagrams and explanations. A huge range of different stitch techniques are illustrated, used to create a myriad of specific designs and effects, together with the recipes for indigo and fibre-reactive dyes. This is an invaluable and inspiring resource book for both the beginner and the more experienced - highly recommended. * East Kent Embroiderers Guild * This is a lovely book, with a new technique I haven't tried before. I must admit I am more of a knitter and crocheter than stithcer, but the running stitch technique is easy to master, and the effects are amazing! What interested me most about the book was the section on natural dyeing (with yarn in mind!), and I found the step by step instructions really interesting and easy to follow. I have already ordered some indigo and alum, and intend to go foraging for some other natural products to continue this experiment! I honestly don't know how much shibori stitching I can see in my future, but I can see this book being pored over with regards to the fantastic dye section * Natasha Field * Shibori is a resist dye technique often associated with indigo. In its most basic form, stitches and/or pleats are applied to cloth before dyeing to create undyed, neutral marks or areas of pattern. Jane Callender, as Jenny Balfour-Paul explains in her foreward, is one of the few British shibori practitioners whose work can be considered a match to the foremost Japanese artists and in this book, the author brings to bear more than three decades of expert knowledge in this ancient craft. Callender wastes no time delving into every aspect of creating patterns using stitch resist. She begins with a brief introduction to shibori, before explaining the basics of preparation, tying knots, pulling threads and simple stitch arrangements. In pages 22-122 she explains all the key stitch-resist techniques needed - how various lengths, directions and rhythms of hand and machine stitch produce different marks. When combined with folds, pleats, binding, capping, wrapping, applique or multiple layers, the possibilities are endless. A second chapter reveals how to create intricate patterns. Finally she provides tuition and recipes for natural and synthetic indigo dyeing, as well as natural dyes and throughout, the instructions are explained clearly with helpful diagrams and photographs. Jane Callender has condensed a lifetime of practical expertise to create what can be best described as the shibori's artist's `best friend', packed with both traditional and inventive stitch-resist techniques, designs and inspiration, including examples of her own work. Readers of this book will not be disappointed - both beginners and experienced makers will benefit from this guide, which at this price provides incredible value for a reference book you will return to again and again. * Embroidery Magazine * Issue 40 Stitched Shibori is the Japanese art of immersing textiles in a dye bath and creating pattern using a range of stitched resist techniques (think tye-dyeing but on another level!). In this practical and beautiful guide , renowned expert Jane Callender showcases techniques, patterns and dyes in three comprehensive sections. Complete with full instructions, illustrations, photographs, designs, tips and advice, her guide features ideas for using grids, folding, pleating, motifs and stencils (plus other techniques) to create beautiful designs. It includes due recipes and useful advice on which fabrics to use. We believe it is a wonderful handbook for beginners and experienced textile artists alike. * Reloved * May 2017 Shibori is a technique with its roots in Africa, China, and Japan. I've seen some pieces that are as intricate and delicate as a snowflake and as such I've rather filed this technique in the box marked `advanced' i.e. not for me. Jane is a highly respected Shibori artist, teacher and speaker and so used to breaking down the technicalities of this centuries-old tradition into practical steps. The book is laid out intelligently, starting with the process of sewing in a single line of straight stitch with clear illustrations and photos showing the results that can be achieved. You can progress quite quickly by introducing more lines and layers or with folds and curves. Finished patterns can quickly become quite kaleidoscopic and for anyone interested in designing their own fabrics this could possibly get quite addictive. I was particularly drawn to the chapter on Wrapped Pattern, which combines stitching on the fold with binding the cloth around a cylinder for its more unpredictable results (but that's me all over: living on the edge!). As with any technique involving dyes, you've got to have a certain amount of space to experiment and be comfortable handling chemicals. There are safety guidelines and recipes for all manner of dyes, both natural and synthetic, at the back of the book and some amazing colour combinations can be achieved with practice. Marigolds at the ready! * Popular Patchwork * Jane Callender has written the most marvellous book, 'Stitched Shibori', in encyclopaedic detail. Exploring the art of Shibori, in particular reference to stitched pieces and the pattern they create, this book exhaustively covers everything. It consists of three sections - Technique, Pattern and Dyeing. In Technique, there are 35 different approaches to stitching fabric. Many different stitches and patterns are explored, whether stitching on a single or double layer, how space between stitches can change a pattern, curve, pleat or binding. There are variations within each choice, producing multitudes of photographs of all the different effects achieved by changing the smallest detail. It is quite mind-boggling! If you want to work on stitched Shibori techniques, there can't be many places where you can find all the answers. Pattern is a short section but teaches how to create the different patterns and stencils. You can see how combining techniques creates an infinite number of patterns - if you thought the first section was overwhelming, suddenly the world of Shibori opens up more widely. The Dyes section is extensively recipe-laden with many different Shibori dyes and how to create them. * Workshop on the web * A comprehensive resource for shibori. The book is divided into three sections: Techniques, Pattern and Dyeing with how-to instructions and photographs. To my knowledge this is the most comprehensive book on shibori. Develop motifs for unique textiles. Indigo recipes and ones for other dyes too, ensure a range a colours. Suitable for the beginner with challenges for every level. Illustrated throughout with some of the most remarkable examples of shibori outside Japan. Learn about shibori tradition, preparation, process, pattern, folds and more. Mogume is my favourite technique. I found Jane's work years ago, and my jaw still drops at her amazing achievements. I just want to work through this book from beginning to end and over and over again. Absolutely essential for anyone interested in dyeing, stitching and shibori. Simply wonderful, demonstrating the true art of shibori. * Yarnsandfabrics.co.uk * Autumn 2017 The author is very well known as both a tutor and textile artist, and this book certianly met my high expectations. Starting with an explanation of the process and an overview of worldwide shibori traditions, the text moves seamlessly through a full description of procedures, starting with methods of scouring fabrics for dyeing, knots and stiching variations. The very clearly illustrated and numerous step-by-step methods, generally referred to by their traditional terminology, are illustrated with photographs of the results. Design advice is provided throughout, so that you don't just master techniques, but learn to use them as effectively as possible. Chapters towards the end of the book are devoted to dyeing firstly, with indigo (including the natural organic vat), then -more unusually for shibori using natural dyes, iron and finally cold water fibre reactive dyes. Unusually this book is very suitable for both beginners and more advanced dyers. For the former, the text is logically organised and clear enough to be viewed as a complete self-teaching guide, but even for those with some experience there are likely to be some new ideas to try. If you have never tried shibori before, the stunning photographs will inevitably tempt you in. Highly recommended. * Journal for Weavers, Spinners and Dyers * For anyone who has ever pulled up and dyed a simple stitched resist, the beauty and complexity of Jane Callender's work is awe-inspiring. In this generous book, she shares, with great detail, her mastery of shibori techniques and dyeing. Attention to detail makes this an excellent guide for all levels. An introduction explains shibori as the interaction between compressed cloth and dye. The section entitled "Shibori Tradition", along with additional pages throughout the book, reveal the history of shibori worldwide and how politics, economics, and fashion affected design, including particular techniques developed by significant Japanese masters in modern times. The "Techniques" section proceeds from the simplest to more complex stitched patterns and shows the power of simple motifs in repeat. Even complex techniques are made clear with step-by-step photos and illustrations. Only a few indigo photos are perhaps too dark to be easily discernible. Some 100 pages are devoted to cloth preparation and process for specific techniques. Even the most experienced practitioner will learn something new about stitching on a single layer, on folded or pleated cloth, or combined methods such as capping and oversewing. Developing a motif by filling in larger shapes encourages creativity. Techniques not usually associated with stitch resist, such as clamp resist and binding or capping to a core, increase our understanding of the possibilities. Suggestions on dip dyeing for variety in some patterns and buffers for clean edges and to prevent knots from pulling through are invaluable. Degumming silk and even working on synthetic fabrics for interesting dimensional results without dyeing is explained. Japanese stitch names are used throughout. The sections on "Pattern" and "Dyes" will set the novice on the right path. Although many examples are dyed in traditional indigo, which is particularly well suited to resist dyeing, mordanted natural dyes, tannins and fiber reactive dyes enliven the book. There are excellent didactic chapters at the end of the book on these dyes. Indigo in particular is well explained. Callender acknowledges the dye experts she has learned from: Michelle Kwon of maiwa, french dye chemist Michel Garcia, and her compatriot author Jenny Balford Paul. The chapters devoted to discharge and dyeing whet the appetite for further exploration. The reader is encouraged to innovate and adapt traditional patterns according to her own artistic creativity. The author provides excellent sections on working with a grid and planning ahead for complex interactions between small pattern motifs. Other valuable tips are highlighted throughout. Callender's book should be read through with care and referred back to often when planning a new project. In this age of searchable documents on line, references to useful pages on particular techniques are appreciated. Finally, the gallery of Callender's own inspiring artwork shows what true mastery of craft can produce. This is an excellent companion to Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada's two earlier seminal books on shibori. Callender's book is a must have for all textile schools, shibori dyers and surface design artists. -- Barbara Shapiro * Shuttle Spindle & Dyepot * Jane Callender is possessed of a unique talent. Since she was a student at West Surrey College of Art and Design, she has dedicated herself to the subtle arts of shibori and indigo dyeing. She is an acknowledged master of her craft. Her innovative award-winning work, admired both for its artistry and high level of technique, has been widely exhibited. A patient and accomplished teacher with all the necessary technical skills at her fingertips, she lectures and conducts workshops across the globe and through her website `Callishibori' supplies shibori materials and tools to a worldwide audience. Well known as the author of the seminal 2000 Pattern Combinations, she has now written this superlative book. Clear, concise, instructive and inspiring, it is destined to be an essential manual and classic work of reference for both beginners and advanced practitioners for many years to come. * John Gillow *

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