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Diane Waller is Professor of Art Psychotherapy at Goldsmiths, University of London, with a background in fine art, art history and ethnography. She is a recognized authority on Balkan textiles. As the recipient of a Leverhulme scholarship in 1972-3, she lived in Skopje and Sofia, where she started to collect Balkan textiles (the majority now in the British Museum's collection). She curated and wrote the accompanying guide to the 'National costumes of the south east Balkans' (1984), was consultant curator to the exhibitions 'Bulgaria: Tradition and Beauty' (Liverpool Museum and touring,1989) and 'Balkan costume from the Waller collection' (Museum of Mankind, British Museum, 1994-5), and has published on Bulgarian traditional costumes.