Table of Contents

Prologue: Diagnosis; 1 First Moves; 2 Lessons from Jack; 3 India; 4 New Schools; 5 Gash Hand; 6 America; 7 A Proper Job; 8 Making Friends; 9 Tomorrow's World; 10 You Don't Need a Hammer to Crack a Nut; 11 Super Nova; 12 Moving the Centre; 13 Three Big Mountains and a Smaller One; 14 Climbing the Walls; 15 Infinity on Trial; 16 Swansong; Acknowledgements.

About the Author

Mark Vallance was born in Cheshire. After watching the film of the 1953 ascent of Everest, he developed an obsession for climbing and exploration. Educated at Abbotsholme School and Goldsmiths, University of London, he spent two years in Halley Bay working for the British Antarctic Survey. In 1977, he formed Wild Country to manufacture Ray Jardine’s revolutionary climbing protection device, called Friends, launching one of the most influential outdoor brands in British history. In 1987 he built and opened Outside, a new kind of outdoor retailer in the UK. Having sold his businesses, Vallance planned a long and action-packed retirement, but was diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease aged only fifty-four. He went on to serve as president of the British Mountaineering Council. Mark died in 2018, aged 72, and the climbing world lost one of its greatest heroes.

Reviews

'[The book] chronicles not just the mountains [Mark] has climbed, but the part he played in bringing to market a little piece of sporting equipment that revolutionised mountaineering and saved countless lives.' – Sarah Freeman, Yorkshire Post ‘Widely-known as the man who made Friends, Mark Vallance’s influence is far wider than that, as his autobiography elucidates. Dick Turnbull summed up Mark’s achievements very well as the book launch at Outside on 2 June 2016, when he said to a packed audience, “your entire climbing career is entirely dependent upon Mark”.' – Keith Sharples, Climber magazine 'This is an outstanding book by an outstanding personality and it is a tragedy that it needs to end on such a sad note with failing vigour, decimated by a presently incurable disease, however he assures us that he is "still fighting gravity and always will".' – Dennis Gray, Footless Crow 'It is a good inspiring read which covers not just the life of a remarkable man, but gives a unique view of some of the developments in our world of climbing that these days we take for granted.' – David Medcalf, Footless Crow 'A thoroughly well written book which combines the personal adventures of the life of a climber with an interesting history of climbing gear and its manufacture in Britain over the last 50 years.' – Nick Carter, Alpha Mountaineering 'The book is an inspirational tale of a very determined man who has without doubt altered and enhanced the climbing world. Absolutely a ‘must-read’.' – Ian Sykes, Scottish Mountaineering Council Journal