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Steak Lover's Cookbook
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About the Author

William Rice is the nationally-known food and wine columnist for The Chicago Tribune. One of America's most respected authorities on food preparation and wine, he has co-edited three editions of Where to Eat in America, a national restaurant guide, wrote Feasts of Wine and Food, a wine guide with recipes, and has contributed articles to Travel and Leisure, GQ, Gourmet, Elle, and Connoisseur. Before joining the Tribune, he was the editor-in-chief of Food & Wine magazine. Bill lives in Chicago with his wife, Jill Van Cleave, a specialist in recipe development.

Reviews

Rump. Loin. Skirt. Hoof. Chuck. Flank. Butt. Sometimes it's hard to tell whether food journalist Rice gets greater pleasure from writing these meaty monosyllables or from eating the cuts of beef they name. He's a modified beef purist, which means he accepts the proposition that it's permissible to apply more than fire to a good cut of meat. He'll subject a porterhouse to a sherry-shallot vinaigrette, whip up a Thai marinade for a flank steak or dress a rib-eye steak with a pinot noir buerre rouge. The book is divided into sections devoted to the various cuts of beef, beginning with the tenderloin (and the filets into which it is often cut) and closing with the cheaper cuts like chuck. Rice offers solid, simple recipes for every part of the cow, from an elegant steak au poivre ("The True Steak," made with filet mignon) to Chicken-Fried Cube Steak with Pan Gravy. There are also recipes for sides like Steak Fries Without the Frier and Okra with Toasted Onions and Cumin. Although many of the preparations require a good outdoor grill, Rice is a big fan of pan-frying in a mixture of butter and olive oil. He broils, too (though most home broilers simply won't do a prime cut of meat justice). With sidenotes on favored steakhouses, shopping tips and ample cow lore, this cookbook offers plenty for both the casual and the committed carnivore to chew on. Author tour. (Dec.)

Hard on the heels of Janeen Sarlin and Diane Porter's The Meat Lover's Cookbook (LJ 12/96) comes Rice's steak book, and‘judging by the number of steakhouses that have opened in Manhattan in the last few months alone‘not a moment too soon. Rice's tribute to steak offers delicious recipes for "Uptown" and "Downtown" cuts, along with several dozen appetizers and side dishes and a handful of desserts. Some of the beef dishes are from restaurants, including Steak à la Stone from the famed Palm; others are the author's own: Bloody Mary Steak and Sauce, Superior Steak Hash. With mouthwatering recipes and a passionate, witty, and informed text, this is recommended for most collections.

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