Table of Contents

VOLUME 1- History/Curation Introduction: Patch One Catherine Harper 1.'Miriam Schapiro and "Femmage": Reflections on the Conflict between Decoration and Abstraction in Twentieth-Century Art', Norma Broude 2.'Outside In: Making Sense of the Deliberate Concealment of Garments within Buildings', Dinah Eastop 3.'The Fold: Baroque and Postmodern Draperies', Gen Doy 4.'Land of Linen', Elizabeth Wayland Barber 5.'The Ideal World of Vermeer's Little Lacemaker', Peter Dormer 6.'Shifting Currency: The Culture and Economy of the Second Hand Trade in England, c. 1600-1850', Beverly Lemire 7. 'Re-threading: Notes Towards a History of Sewing Thread in Britain', Philip A. Sykas 8. 'Spun Virtue, the Lacework of Folly, and the World Wound Upside-Down: Seventeenth-Century Dutch Depictions of Female Handwork', Linda Stone-Ferrier 9.'The Interpretation of Surface: Boundaries, Systems and Their Transgression in Clothing and Domestic Textiles, c. 1880-1939', Victoria Kelley 10.'Untouchable: Creating Desire and Knowledge in Museum Costume and Textile Exhibitions', Alexandra Palmer 11.'A Tapestry of Riddling Links: Universal Contiguity in A.S. Byatt's "Arachne" ', Maria Jesus Martinez Alfaro 12.'Penelope and the Unravelling of History', Ruth Scheuing 13.'The Devil and His Striped Clothes (13th-16th Centuries)', Michel Pastoureau (translated by Jody Gladding) 14.'Value-added Stuffs and Shifts in Meaning: An Overview and Case Study of Medieval Textile Paradigms', Désirée Koslin 15.'Made in Patriarchy: Toward a Feminist Analysis of Women and Design', Cheryl Buckley 16.'Annie Garnett: The Arts and Crafts Movement and the Business of Textile Manufacture', Jennie Brunton 17.'Mothers and Babies', John Styles 18.'Patterns of Respectability: Publishing, Home Sewing and the Dynamics of Class and Gender 1870-1914', Christopher Breward 19.'Stitching a Life in "Pen of Steele and Silken Inke": Elizabeth Parker's circa 1830 Sampler', Maureen Daly Goggin 20.'Artefact-based Approaches: Display and Interpretation', Lou Taylor 21.'Collecting the Contemporary: "Love Will Decide What Is Kept and Science Will Decide How It Is Kept" ', Sue Prichard 22.'The Cod-piece - A Renaissance Fashion between Sign and Artefact', Thomas Lüttenberg 23.'The Skin and White Linen', Georges Vigarello 24.'Rumpelstiltskin's Bargain: Folklore and the Merchant Capitalist Intensification of Linen Manufacture in Early Modern Europe', Jane Schneider VOLUME 2 - Production (including Sustainability) Introduction: Patch Two Catherine Harper 1.'Towards a Poetics of Workmanship', David Brett 2.'Reuse, Recycling and Zero Waste', Kate Fletcher 3.'Sustainable 'v' Unsustainable: Articulating Division in the Fashion Textiles Industry', Kim Fraser and Joan Farrer 4.'A Question of Design', William McDonough and Michael Braungart 5.'The Pliable Plane; Textiles in Architecture', Anni Albers 6.'Helping or Hindering? Controversies around the International Second-Hand Clothing Trade', Karen Tranberg Hansen 7.'The Feel for Rugged Texture', Helen Douglas 8.'My Fur Ladies: The Fabric of a Nation', Chantal Nadeau 9.'Creative Entrepreneurs: The Recyding of Second Hand Indian Clothing', Lucy Norris 10. 'Textile Art - Who Are You?', Sarat Maharaj 11.'King Cotton: How America Has Dominated the Global Cotton Industry for 200 Years', Pietra Rivoli 12.'An Archeology of Tapestry', Diana Wood Conroy 13.'Anatomy of a Quilt: The Gees' Bend Freedom Quilting Bee', Nancy Scheper-Hughes 14.'Trade and Trends 750 BC to AD 600', Mary Schoeser 15.'Textiles, Text and Techne', Victoria Mitchell 16.'Venus in Furs', Leopold von Sacher-Masoch 17.'De-fictioning Utopia', Jonathan Chapman 18.'I Found Myself inside Her Fur . . . ', Catherine Harper 19.'Craft, Creativity and Critical Practice', Sue Rowley 20.'The Artefact as Manufactured Object', Daniel Miller 21.'Pixel Patchwork: "Quilting in Time" Online', Brenda Danet VOLUME 3 - Science and Technology Introduction: Patch Three Catherine Harper 1.'Electronic Textiles: Wearable Computers, Reactive Fashion, and Soft Computation', Joanna Berzowska 2.'NASA: Advancing Ultra-performance', Cara McCarty 3.'The Future of Fibres and Fabrics', Sarah E. Braddock Clarke 4.'Engineered Textiles', Marie O'Mahony 5.'Extreme Interfaces', Bradley Quinn 6.'Building Liveness: Imagining Architecture as a Robotic Membrane', Mette Ramsgard Thomsen 7.'The Emotional Wardrobe', Sharon Baurley and Lisa Stead 8.'Silks as Ancient Models for Modern Polymers', Fritz Vollrath and David Porter 9.'Sewing/Sowing: Cultivating Responsive Geotextiles', Charles Stankievech 10.'Textile Innovation: Interactive, Contemporary and Traditional Materials', Ros Hibbert 11. ''N' Day: The Dawn of Nylon (1930-50)', Susannah Handley 12.'The Future Looms: Weaving Women and Cybernetics', Sadie Plant 13.'Creating Consumers: Gender, Class and the Family Sewing Machine', Nancy Page Fernandez 14.'On Crafting Humanity: An Interview with Margi Geerlinks, at Home, Rotterdam, Netherlands, November 8, 2006, and email June 2008', Caryn Simonson 15.'Powers and Dangers', Mary Douglas 16.'Intimate Textiles', Ingrid C. Bachmann VOLUME 4 - Identity Introduction: Patch Four Catherine Harper 1.'Stain', Pennina Barnett 2.'The Domestication of Embroidery', Rozsika Parker 3.'Wedding Presents: Marriage Gifts and the Limits of Consumption, Britain, 1945-2000', Louise Purbrick 4.'On Stuff and Nonsense: The Complexity of Cloth', Claire Pajaczkowska 5.'Maja Bajevic: The Matrix of Memory', Bojana Pejic 6.'Autobiographical Patterns', Janis Jefferies 7.'Black Arts: O Mia Anima Nera', Derek Jarman 8.'Material of Culture, Fabric of Identity', Neil Jarman 9.'Symbol, Pattern and the Unconscious: The Search for Meaning', Jane Graves 10.'Kente and Its Image Outside of Ghana', Doran .H. Ross 11.'Freud, Fabric, Fetish', Anne Hamlyn 12.'The Topology of Anne Wilson's Topologies', Kathryn Hixson 13.'Embroidering the Motherland: The Fabric of Palestinian National Identity', Tina Sherwell 14.'Change: The Ephemeral Materiality of Identity', Judy Attfield 15.'Piecing and Writing', Elaine Showalter 16.'Stain: On Cloth, Stigma, and Shame', Jenni Sorkin 17. 'The Ribbon: Objets/Objects', Roland Barthes (translated by Richard Howard) 18.'The Yellow Wallpaper', Charlotte Perkins Gillman 19.'Textile Punctum: Embroidery of Memory', Otto von Busch 20.'Arachnologies: The Woman, the Text, and the Critic', Nancy K. Miller 21.'There's No Place Like Home: Home Dressmaking and Creativity in the Jamaican Community of the 1940s to the 1960s', Carol Tulloch 22. 'Making Something from Nothing (toward a Definition of Women's 'Hobby Art')', Lucy Lippard 23.'The Needle as the Pen: Intentionality, Needlework, and the Production of Alternate Discourses of Power', Heather Pristash, Inez Schaechterle and Sue Carter Wood 24.'Approaching Abjection', Julia Kristeva 25.'Narelle Jubelin at Goldsmiths College, London', Catherine Harper 26.'The Sewing Desire Machine', Peter Hobbs 27. 'Migrant Textiles: Burdens, Bundles and Baggage', Barbara Layne 28.'Crimes against Nature', Neil MacInnis 29.'The Runners as Symbols of Women's History: Wing Two - From the Beginning of Christianity to the Reformation', Judy Chicago 30.'Memory and Objects', Juliet Ash 31.'How All Life Is Lived, in Patches', Jessica Hemmings 32.'Needled Women: Representations of Male Conduct in Mapula Embroideries', Brenda Schmahmann Appendix of Sources

Promotional Information

The first multi-volume reference work to anthologize writing on textiles from the perspective of the humanities and social sciences.

About the Author

Catherine Harper is Dean of Creative and Cultural Industries, University of Portsmouth, UK.

Reviews

Congratulations on this incredible publication, what an amazing resource for all of us in the textile world!
*Annet Couwenberg, Maryland Institute College of Art*

A very fine achievement.
*Professor Janis Jefferies, Goldsmiths College*

So impressive! Everyone [in our department] is quite thrilled that this resource is available. Thank you!
*Anne Wilson, Chair of Fiber and Material Studies, School of the Art Institute of Chicago, USA*