Table of Contents

Part 1: Mountaineering1. IntroductionWho's It For?2. Let's Go Climbing TogetherGet Your Head ReadyGet Your Skills ReadyFast and LightGet Your Body ReadyGet Your Gear ReadyGet StartedBase CampThe Alpine StartThe ApproachThe ClimbOnto the RockRetreatBe ResourcefulBe ToughHave FunPart 2: The Approach3. Moving Fast on the TrailOn the ApproachOn the Climb4. Wilderness NavigationNavigation with MapsHandy Navigation FeaturesResorting to Your CompassAltimetersNew-School MappingGPS and UTMEstimating Travel TimeLostAnother Way of Navigating5. Mountain HazardsRockfall and IcefallRainRiver CrossingsLightningAvalancheAltitudeHeat and ColdSun and UV6. Mountain WeatherWhat You Already KnowClouding the PictureWhen Weather Gets a LiftClimatologyPredicting Mountain Weather Using Local ObservationsLifting the Fog7. The Alpine StartWhy Start EarlyMorning Begins at SundownTurning Off the LightsThe Dread BivouacPart 3: Rock8. Climb Rating SystemsClimb with ClassThe YDSIce with That?Making the GradeWhat Does All This Mean to Mountaineers?9. Your Climbing RopeThe BasicsSingle, Half, TwinWhat Specs Are Unimportant?What Specs Matter?Recommendations for Mountaineering RopesHandling and Caring for Your Rope10. Equipment for Rock ClimbingClimbing HarnessBelay/Rappel BrakesHelmetCarabinersRunners and SlingsCordeletteProtection HardwareNut ToolRap RingKnife11. Climbing ForcesPhysics 001Static ForcesDynamic Forces and Leader FallsReal-World Influences on Fall Forces Strength of Safety-System ComponentsForce Multiplication12. AnchorsTying InSimple AnchorsComplex AnchorsWhat's a Mountaineer to Do?13. RappellingGet ConnectedRappel AnchorsGetting StartedJoining Two Ropes for RappellingFinal PreparationsSelf-Belay While RappellingCast OffAs You AlightLast Is BestFreeing a Stuck Rope14. Climbing on RockPreliminariesBelaying the LeaderLeadingClimbingPlacing ProBelaying the SecondSecondingChangeoverMoving Fast on RockPart 4: Snow and Ice15. Equipment for Snow and Ice ClimbingMountaineering AxCramponsSnowshoesTrekking PolesPulkkeGogglesShovelProtection Hardware and Personal Gear16. Climbing Snow and IceAscending SnowCrampon TechniquesMountaineering Ax TechniquesDescendingRoped Travel on SnowClimbing with ProtectionMoving Fast on SnowClimbing Ice Part 5: Base Camp Basics17. Lightweight MountaineeringStep Lightly18. Equipment for Base CampBoots and ShoesBackpacksClothing SystemsShelter SystemsSleeping SystemsFuel and StovesTen Essentials Rethought for MountaineeringFirst-Aid KitNon-EssentialsTen Essentials for CookingWater Purification19. Performance Nutrition for MountaineersCalorie ConsumptionPartial Repletion Is BestHydrationElectrolyte RepletionCalories on the GoThrowing Fat on the FireProtein--You Eat What You AreReality Nutrition and AltitudeA Dog's BreakfastNutrition on the GoGet Started as Soon as You StopRepletion Starts with WaterThen Total CaloriesReality Dining--AgainCatching Up on ElectrolytesNutritional SupplementsSports SupplementsVegetarian Mountaineers20. Training for MountaineeringFollow the Training Advice of German ExistentialistPhilosophersVO2max--The Measure of Aerobic FitnessPercentage of VO2max--The Measure of Your Personal Aerobic Exercise IntensityHeart Rate--The Measure for Most of UsHow Long Does Training Take?At What Intensity Should I Train?What Aerobic Exercises Work for Mountaineers?Strength TrainingPersistenceMental Training21. Wilderness First AidWilderness First-Aid InstructionFirst-Aid KitShockingTakeaway ExamplePsychological First Aid22. Protecting the Natural EnvironmentLeave No TraceAccessBe Like EdPart 6: Advanced Techniques23. Lightweight RopesRappellingBelaying the Leader on a Thin RopeBelaying the SecondReleasing an Autoblock24. Roped PartiesSimul-ClimbingFixed RopesRappelling by a Group25. Self-RescueThink AheadPlan Your EscapeAscendingPulley SystemsAssisted DescendingEvacuation26. Glacier Travel and Crevasse RescueHow They Get That WayOrganizing the Rope TeamOff We GoSafe CampingWhen Luck Runs OutPart 7: The Human Dimensions of Mountaineering27. Human Factors and Not Technical Factors?Risk Management and Decision MakingControlling FearLeadershipEmergency Response28. Why Do We Do It?Travel SoloTravel with CharlieAppendix A. Additional SkillsAppendix B. ResourcesAppendix C. GlossaryIndex

About the Author

Craig Connally is in his third decade of mountaineering, ski mountaineering, and climbing rock and ice. He climbs with instructors and guides and has mentored beginning climbers. A contributor to the Sierra Clubs Leader Reference Book, he has given presentations on GPS, ski mountaineering, avalanche avoidance and rescue, map and compass use, and other trekking and mountaineering topics. An engineering manager in the entertainment industry, he brings an analytical eye and a clear and entertaining writing style to this handbook of mountaineering. Hometown: Alhambra, CA