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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters
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Table of Contents

1. Introduction; 2. Observation techniques; 3. Description of ocean waves; 4. Statistics; 5. Linear wave theory (oceanic waters); 6. Waves in oceanic waters; 7. Linear wave theory (coastal waters); 8. Waves in coastal waters; 9. The SWAN wave model; Appendices; References; Index.

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Describes physical and statistical aspects of waves for graduates, researchers and engineers.

About the Author

Leo H. Holthuijsen teaches at the Delft University of Technology and UNESCO-IHE (Institute for Water Education) in the Netherlands.

Reviews

' ... will undoubtedly be welcomed by the extensive engineering community concerned with the impact of ocean waves on ships, off-shore structures, coastal protection, dikes, harbours, beaches and tidal basins.' K. Hasselmann, Director (retired) of the Max-Planck-Institut fur Meteorologie, Hamburg, and Emeritus Professor of Theoretical Geophysics, University of Hamburg 'The author, well-known for his work in wave modeling and the development of the SWAN model, provides a valuable introduction ... will be very helpful to students, as well as professionals, interested in wind-wave wave modeling. All SWAN users will want a copy.' R.A. Dalrymple, Williard & Lillian Hackerman Professor of Civil Engineering, Johns Hopkins University ' ... excellent not only as a textbook for students but also as a reference book for professionals.' Y. Goda, Executive Advisor to ECOH CORPERATION, and formerly Director-General of Port and Airport Research Institute, Japan ' ... a 'must have' for engineers and scientists interested in the ocean. ... It is an invaluable reference for students, researchers and practitioners.' I. Young, Vice-Chancellor and President of Swinburne University of Technology, Australia ' ... a great book. The author is one of the leading experts in the field of waves who has taught the subject for over 20 years - and it shows.' J. W. Kamphuis, Emeritus Professor of Civil Engineering, Queen's University, Canada ' ... highlights key concepts, unites seemingly unconnected theories, and unlocks the complexity of the sea. ... will become an important reference for students, coastal and ocean engineers, and oceanographers.' J. Smith, Editor, International Conference on Coastal Engineering, US Army Engineer Research and Development Center, USA ' ... an excellent source of information about wind-generated, ocean-surface gravity waves, especially as used in state of the art numerical wave models, in particular those that simulate waves in shallow coastal waters, such as SWAN. The book is nicely illustrated, well written, contains many references, and will be of interest to scientists and engineers.' Oceanography

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