Introduction Chapter 1 Tailoring and the Birth of the Published Paper Pattern Chapter 2 Development of Dressmaking Patterns Chapter 3 Nineteenth Century Technology Chapter 4 Early History of Pattern Companies 1860s-1880s Chapter 5 New Markets and Expansion 1880s-1900 Chapter 6 Shifts and Balances 1900-1920s Chapter 7 Blossoming Economy 1920-1929 Chapter 8 Surviving the Great Depression 1930s Chapter 9 The War Years 1940s Chapter 10 Shifting Trends 1960s Chapter 11 New Challenges 1960s-1980s Chapter 12 Reinvention and Renaissance 1980s-2010 Epilogue Appendix 9 Pattern Grids 1854-1968 Endnotes Bibliography Index
Highly illustrated and accessible, this is the first book to offer an overview of the history of the paper dressmaking pattern industry from the 16th century to present day.
Joy Emery was, until her death in 2018. Professor Emerita of Theatre and Curator of The Commercial Pattern Archive at the University of Rhode Island, USA.
With this volume Emery reveals important facets of American and
women's history. She covers domestic and professional sewing from
hand-drawn patterns to Internet- and computer-based creations […]
Her publication is profusely illustrated with 200 style and pattern
drawings (mostly from period catalogs and advertisements). It
features nine complete patterns, usable for readers/sewers, which
cover fashion styles from 1850 to 1968. Summing Up: Recommended.
Lower-level undergraduates and above; general readers.
*CHOICE*
Students of fashion and historical-costuming enthusiasts will
delight in this in-depth examination of the paper sewing pattern.
The evolution of the tool is examined in full, from its inception
as a cutting guide for minimizing cloth waste to the
fashion-forward instructions sold today […] Home sewing has seen a
resurgence of popularity in the last few years, and although this
is not the book for the Pinterest populace (though browsing the
illustrations is both fascinating and hilarious at turns), serious
costumers and designers will appreciate the depth and breadth of
information and the easy-flowing narrative of this “home
dressmaking fashion revolution.
*Booklist*
It will be a springboard for students, collectors, curators and
historians, and an appendix of nine patterns from 1854 to 1968
rendered for today’s users will surely appeal to adventurous
dressmakers.
*Costume*
Emery’s deep knowledge of her subject makes this book not only a
crucial reference work, but also an important pointer to numerous
avenues for future scholarship in this neglected area of fashion
industry.
*Art Libraries Journal*
[A] skilful examination of how home dressmaking changed
expectations about and the means to be fashionable on a limited
budget ... Well-chosen illustrations ... are an essential and
well-integrated complement to the text and provide an extra layer
of information on the evolution of the pattern-making industry.
*Reviews in History*
This is an essential book for anyone interested in vintage sewing
patterns and the home sewing industry, especially anyone seeking
information about the pattern companies and their dates of
operation. It could be useful to vintage pattern resellers, as
well, in helping to date patterns.
*Threads*
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