Table of Contents

List of Contributors xxv

Preface xxix

Part I 1
1 The History of Cheese 3
Paul S. Kindstedt

1.1 Introduction 3

1.2 Origins of Cheese 3

1.3 Cheese in Antiquity 7

1.4 Cheese in the Middle Ages and Renaissance 10

1.5 Cheese in the Modern Era 12

References 14

2 From Micelle to Melt: The Influence of Calcium on Physico-chemical Properties of Cheese 20
Darren R. Cooke and Paul L.H. McSweeney

2.1 Introduction 20

2.2 Calcium Equilibrium in Bovine Milk 21

2.3 Calcium Equilibrium in Cheese 25

2.4 The Influence of Calcium on Cheese Rheology and Functionality 31

2.5 Conclusions 40

References 40

3 Cheese Flavour Development and Sensory Characteristics 45
Kieran Kilcawley and Maurice O’Sullivan

3.1 Introduction 45

3.2 Biochemical Pathways Involved in Cheese Flavour 46

3.3 Sensory Methods 58

3.4 Data Analysis, Chemometrics and Preference Mapping 63

3.5 Conclusion 63

References 64

4 Cheese Microbial Ecology and Safety 71
Antonia Picon

4.1 Introduction 71

4.2 Source of Microorganisms in Cheese 71

4.3 Factors Influencing the Growth of Microorganisms in Cheese 72

4.4 Cheese Microbiota 72

4.5 Cheese Pathogens 77

4.6 Other Risks of Microbial Origin 81

4.7 Growth and Survival of Bacterial Pathogens in Cheese 82

4.8 Procedures to Improve Cheese Safety 84

4.9 Conclusions and Future Trends 89

References 89

5 Cheeses with Protected Land- and Tradition-Related Labels: Traceability and Authentication 100
Luiz Javier R. Barron, Noelia Aldai, Mailo Virto and Mertxe de Renobales

5.1 Introduction: Protected Land- and Tradition-Related Labels 100

5.2 Traceability 103

5.3 Authentication: What Should Be Authenticated? 103

5.4 Innovation, Modern Technologies and Traditional Cheeses 112

5.5 Conclusions 113

Acknowledgements 113

References 113

6 An Overview of the Cheesemaking Process 120
Thomas Bintsis and Photis Papademas

6.1 Introduction 120

6.2 Milk Types and Composition 121

6.3 Raw Milk Quality for Cheesemaking 123

6.4 Additives in Cheese Milk 126

6.5 Milk Standardisation 127

6.6 Treatments of Raw Milk for Cheesemaking 127

6.7 Acidification 129

6.8 Coagulation 131

6.9 Post-Coagulation Processes 132

6.10 Control of Cheesemaking Steps 136

6.11 Cheese Maturation 136

6.12 Adjunct Cultures and Acceleration of the Maturation Process 137

6.13 Packaging 138

6.14 Main Cheese Categories 140

References 152

7 Traditional Wooden Equipment Used for Cheesemaking and Their Effect on Quality 157
Giuseppe Licitra, Margherita Caccamo, Florence Valence and Sylvie Lortal

7.1 Introduction to Traditional Cheeses 157

7.2 Traditional Equipment 158

7.3 Biofilms of Wooden Vats 161

7.4 Wooden Shelves 163

7.5 Legislation Concerning Wood in Contact with Milk or Cheeses 164

7.6 Cleaning Systems 165

7.7 Safety Assessment 167

7.8 Conclusions 168

References 169

Part II 173

Introduction 175

Cheeses from Argentina 175

Acknowledgements 175

References 176

Cheeses from Cyprus 176

Reference 177

Cheeses from Denmark 177

References 178

Cheeses from France 178

Cheeses from Germany 179

Cheeses from Greece 180

Reference 181

Cheeses from Italy 181

Cheeses from Malta 183

Cheeses from the Netherlands 183

Cheeses from Portugal 184

Cheeses from Serbia 185

References 186

Cheeses from Slovakia 186

Cheeses from Spain 187

Acknowledgements 188

Cheeses from Sweden 188

References 189

Cheeses from Switzerland 190

Acknowledgements 190

Cheeses from Turkey 191

References 192

Cheeses from the United Kingdom 192

1 Extra-Hard Cheeses 194
Giuseppe Licitra, Erica R. Hynes, Maria Cristina Perotti, Carina V. Bergamini, Elisabeth Eugster-Meier, Marie-Therese Fröhlich-Wyder, Ernst Jakob and Daniel Wechsler

1.1 Parmigiano Reggiano PDO – Italy 194

1.2 Reggianito Cheese – Argentina 197

Acknowledgements 199

1.3 Sbrinz PDO – Switzerland 199

References 201

2 Hard Cheeses 204
Katja Hartmann, Giuseppe Licitra, Elisabeth Eugster-Meier, Marie-Therese Fröhlich-Wyder, Ernst Jakob, Daniel Wechsler, Jean L. Maubois, Kimon-Andreas G. Karatzas, Thomas Bintsis, Efstathios Alichanidis, Maria Belén López Morales, Françoise Berthier, İrem Uzunsoy, Barbaros Özer and Ylva Ardö

2.1 Allgäu Mountain Cheese – Germany 204

2.2 Asiago PDO – Italy 206

2.3 Berner Alpkäse PDO and Berner Hobelkäse PDO – Switzerland 210

2.4 Cantal PDO – France 213

2.5 Cheddar – United Kingdom 214

2.6 Cheshire – United Kingdom 216

2.7 Fiore Sardo PDO – Italy 218

2.8 Graviera Kritis PDO – Greece 220

2.9 Idiazabal PDO – Spain 222

2.10 Kefalograviera PDO – Greece 224

2.11 Kefalotyri – Greece 226

2.12 Le Gruyère PDO – Switzerland 228

2.13 Ossau Iraty PDO – France 230

2.14 Tête de Moine PDO, Fromage de Bellelay – Switzerland 233

2.15 Tulum Cheese –Turkey 235

2.16 Västerbottensost – Sweden 237

2.17 Würchwitzer Mite Cheese – Germany 239

References 241

3 Semi-hard Cheeses 247
Elisabeth Eugster-Meier, Marie-Therese Fröhlich-Wyder, Ernst Jakob, Daniel Wechsler , Maria Belén López Morales, Giuseppe Licitra, Françoise Berthier, Photis Papademas, Ylva Ardö, Tânia G. Tavares, F. Xavier Malcata, Zorica Radulovic and Jelena Miocinovic

3.1 Appenzeller ® – Switzerland 247

3.2 Arzúa-Ulloa PDO – Spain 250

3.3 Castelmagno PDO – Italy 253

3.4 Comté PDO – France 256

3.5 Flaouna Cheese – Cyprus 259

3.6 Formaggio di Fossa di Sogliano PDO – Italy 260

3.7 Havarti – Denmark 263

 

3.8 Herrgård – Sweden 264

3.9 Mahón-Menorca PDO – Spain 267

3.10 Majorero PDO – Spain 269

3.11 Manchego PDO – Spain 271

3.12 Murcia al Vino PDO – Spain 274

3.13 Präst – Sweden 276

3.14 Raclette du Valais PDO – Switzerland 278

3.15 Raclette Suisse ® -Switzerland 280

3.16 San Simón da Costa PDO-Spain 282

3.17 Svecia PGI – Sweden 285

3.18 Serpa – Portugal 286

3.19 Sombor Cheese – Serbia 289

3.20 Tuma Persa PDO – Italy 291

References 293

4 Soft Cheeses (with Rennet) 301
Maria Belén López Morales, Thomas Bintsis, Efstathios Alichanidis, Karol Herian, Paul Jelen, Erica R. Hynes, Maria Cristina Perotti, Carina V. Bergamini, Everaldo Attard , Anthony Grupetta, Stefania Carpino, Tânia G. Tavares and F. Xavier Malcata

4.1 Afuega΄l Pitu PDO – Spain 301

4.2 Anevato PDO – Greece 304

4.3 Bryndza – Slovakia 305

4.4 Cremoso – Argentina 307

Acknowledgements 309

4.5 Galotyri PDO – Greece 310

4.6 Kopanisti PDO – Greece 311

4.7 Maltese Ġbejna – Malta 312

4.8 Serra da Estrela PDO – Portugal 316

4.9 Torta del Casar PDO – Spain 319

References 321

5 Dutch-Type Cheeses 326
Eva-Maria Düsterhöft, Wim Engels and Thom Huppertz

5.1 Edam Cheese – The Netherlands 326

5.2 Gouda – The Netherlands 329

5.3 Hollandse Geitenkaas (Dutch Goat’s Cheese) PGI – The Netherlands 332

References 334

6 Swiss-Type Cheeses (Propionic Acid Cheeses) 336
Katja Hartmann, Elisabeth Eugster-Meier, Marie-Therese Fröhlich-Wyder, Ernst Jakob, Daniel Wechsler, Ylva Ardö, Eva-Maria Düsterhöft, Wim Engels, Thom Huppertz, Erica R. Hynes, Maria Cristina Perotti and Carina V. Bergamini

6.1 Allgäu Emmental PDO – Germany 336

6.2 Emmentaler PDO – Switzerland 338

6.3 Grevé – Sweden 340

6.4 Maasdammer – The Netherlands 342

6.5 Pategrás Cheese – Argentina 344

Acknowledgements 346

References 346

7 White-Brined Cheeses 349
Thomas Bintsis, Efstathios Alichanidis, İrem Uzunsoy, Barbaros Özer, Photis Papademas, Zorica Radulovic and Jelena Miocinovic

7.1 Batzos PDO – Greece 349

7.2 Beyaz Peynir – Turkey 351

7.3 Feta PDO – Greece 353

7.4 Halitzia – Cyprus 356

7.5 Halloumi – Cyprus 357

7.6 Mihalıç – Turkey 359

7.7 Sjenica – Serbia 361

7.8 Urfa – Turkey 363

References 365

8 Pasta-Filata Cheeses 368
Giuseppe Licitra, Zorica Radulovic, Jelena Miocinovic, İrem Uzunsoy, Barbaros Özer, Thomas Bintsis, Efstathios Alichanidis, Karol Herian and Paul Jelen

8.1 Caciocavallo Podolico PDO – Italy 368

8.2 Kachkaval (Kačkavalj) – Serbia 370

8.3 Kashar (Kaşar Peyniri) – Turkey 372

8.4 Kasseri PDO – Greece 374

8.5 Mozzarella di Bufala Campana PDO – Italy 376

8.6 Parenica – Slovakia 379

8.7 Provolone Valpadana PDO – Italy 382

8.8 Ragusano PDO – Italy 383

8.9 Vastedda della Valle del Belìce PDO – Italy 386

References 389

9 Mould Surface-Ripened Cheeses 392
Katja Hartmann and Jean L. Maubois

9.1 Altenburger Goat Cheese PDO – Germany 392

9.2 Camembert de Normandie PDO – France 394

References 395

10 Bacterial Surface-Ripened (Smear) Cheeses 397
Ylva Ardö, Françoise Berthier, Katja Hartmann, Elisabeth Eugster-Meier , Marie-Therese Fröhlich-Wyder*, Ernst Jakob and Daniel Wechsler

10.1 Danbo – Denmark 397

10.2 Epoisses PDO – France 399

10.3 Esrom PGI – Denmark 401

10.4 Hohenheim Trappisten – Germany 403

10.5 Maroilles PDO – France 404

10.6 Reblochon PDO – France 407

10.7 Vacherin Mont-d’Or PDO – Switzerland 409

References 412

11 Blue-Veined Cheeses 415
Maria Belén López Morales, Ylva Ardö, Françoise Berthier, Kimon-Andreas G. Karatzas and Thomas Bintsis

11.1 Cabrales PDO – Spain 415

11.2 Danablu PGI – Denmark 418

11.3 Fourme d’Ambert PDO – France 420

11.4 Fourme de Montbrison PDO – France 420

11.5 Gamonedo PDO – Spain 423

11.6 Roquefort PDO – France 426

11.7 Stilton PDO – United Kingdom 429

References 432

12 Acid-Coagulated Cheeses 436
Katja Hartmann, Françoise Berthier and Giuseppe Licitra

12.1 Acid Curd (Harzer) – Germany 436

12.2 Crottin de Chavignol PDO – France 438

12.3 Quark – Germany 441

12.4 Robiola di Roccaverano PDO – Italy 442

References 444

13 Whey Cheeses (Heat Coagulated) 446
Photis Papademas, Thomas Bintsis, Efstathios Alichanidis and Ylva Ardö

13.1 Anari – Cyprus 446

13.2 Anthotyros – Greece 447

13.3 Manouri PDO – Greece 449

13.4 Mesost and Messmör – Sweden 450

References 451

Index 453

About the Author

About the Editors
PHOTIS PAPADEMAS is Assistant Professor of Dairy Science and Technology at the Department of Agricultural Sciences, Biotechnology and Food Science, Cyprus University of Technology, Cyprus.

THOMAS BINTSIS is a consultant to the dairy industry and auditor of food safety management systems, and was formerly an adjunct lecturer at the Technological Education Institute of West Macedonia, Greece.