A Cultural & Natural History of Cacao with Recipes
Contents
Acknowledgments / Viii
Growing Up with Cacao / 1
A Natural and Cultural History of Chocolate / 7
Identifying Cacao / 61
From Cacao to Chocolate / 95
Tasting Chocolate / 135
Recipes / 143
Glossary / 227
Sources / 232
Select Bibliography / 238
Index / 242
MARICEL E. PRESILLA is a culinary historian, author, and chef
specializing in the cuisines of Latin America and Spain. She
studied medieval Spanish history at Spain's University of
Valladolid and at New York University, where she received her PhD.
Formally trained in cultural anthropology, she has done extensive
research on the food crops of the Americas and taught at New York
University and Rutgers University.
Presilla is a frequent contributor to Saveur, Food & Wine, and
Gourmet, and also writes the Miami Herald's "Cocina" column. A
recognized authority on all aspects of chocolate as well as on
Spanish and Latin American culinary history, she has given numerous
seminars, tastings, and lectures to culinary groups nationwide and
has been featured in the country's top food publications. She is a
member of the advisory committee for the Culinary Institute of
America's Latin American program and was recently named one of the
"Ten innovators who will influence food in the U.S. for the next 30
years" by Food & Wine.
Presilla is the president of Gran Cacao, a food marketing company
specializing in chocolate research and the heirloom cacao bean
trade. She has been a consultant for several food companies
including the Venezuela-based Chocolates El Rey C.A., whose premium
chocolates she helped introduce to the United States. She is the
co-owner and chef of two restaurants in Hoboken, New Jersey- the
small pan-Latin Zafra and the more formal South American
Cucharamama. The restaurants have earned Presilla repeated
nominations for the James Beard Foundation's Best Chef Mid-Atlantic
award. In September 2009, she was awarded the prestigious Silver
Spoon Award by Food Arts magazine for her multifaceted
contributions to the culinary arts.
Presilla is the author of three illustrated books on various
aspects of Latin American culture and a forthcoming book on Latin
American cooking. Her newest venture is the food store and cooking
atelier Ultramarinos in Hoboken. She divides her time between her
New Jersey restaurants, Miami, and Latin America.
“Few people in the world know as much about chocolate as Maricel
Presilla, or write as passionately about it. Her pioneering book,
The New Taste of Chocolate, is the first to document the
fascinating diversity of cacao varieties and their influence on
chocolate quality. It also describes and celebrates the full arc of
chocolate’s evolution, from pre-Columbian times to the twenty-first
century. This book will be a revelation and delight to anyone who
loves chocolate.”
—Harold McGee, author of On Food and Cooking
“The New Taste of Chocolate is fascinating and genuinely original.
Based on unique, personal knowledge, Maricel’s book will serve as a
primary research source and change the way chocolate lovers think
about and taste chocolate.”
—Robert Steinberg and John Scharffenberger, co-founders of
Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker, Inc.
“It’s not a coincidence that chocolate and gold are sold in bars.
Chocolate lovers who treasure history and recipes will find this
book as valuable as it is delicious.”
—Flo Braker, author of Sweet Miniatures
“Maricel presents a colorful, textured, and in-depth view of the
past, present, and possible future of cacao. We are also allowed a
taste of the diversity that was once part of the palate of flavors
used by the chocolate industry of old and insight into why some of
these may be lost forever.”
—Gary Guittard, president of Guittard Chocolate Company
“After reading Maricel’s book and recognizing the sophisticated and
complex journey from cacao in the field to the wonderful quality
chocolate available to consumers, you will have a whole new
appreciation for chocolate. Maricel offers detailed insight into
the nuances of chocolate. A ‘must read’ for all chocoholics.”
—Emily Luchetti
“The New Taste of Chocolate is a loving tribute to cacao and the
unsung heroes who have nurtured it for centuries, miraculously
transforming it from bean to bar to the latest chocolate creation.
Maricel’s meticulously researched book deserves a place of honor in
every serious chocolate lover’s library.”
—Elaine González, author of The Art of Chocolate
"Few people in the world know as much about chocolate as Maricel
Presilla, or write as passionately about it. Her pioneering book,
The New Taste of Chocolate, is the first to document the
fascinating diversity of cacao varieties and their influence on
chocolate quality. It also describes and celebrates the full arc of
chocolate's evolution, from pre-Columbian times to the twenty-first
century. This book will be a revelation and delight to anyone who
loves chocolate."
-Harold McGee, author of On Food and Cooking
"The New Taste of Chocolate is fascinating and genuinely original.
Based on unique, personal knowledge, Maricel's book will serve as a
primary research source and change the way chocolate lovers think
about and taste chocolate."
-Robert Steinberg and John Scharffenberger, co-founders of
Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker, Inc.
"It's not a coincidence that chocolate and gold are sold in bars.
Chocolate lovers who treasure history and recipes will find this
book as valuable as it is delicious."
-Flo Braker, author of Sweet Miniatures
"Maricel presents a colorful, textured, and in-depth view of the
past, present, and possible future of cacao. We are also allowed a
taste of the diversity that was once part of the palate of flavors
used by the chocolate industry of old and insight into why some of
these may be lost forever."
-Gary Guittard, president of Guittard Chocolate Company
"After reading Maricel's book and recognizing the sophisticated and
complex journey from cacao in the field to the wonderful quality
chocolate available to consumers, you will have a whole new
appreciation for chocolate. Maricel offers detailed insight into
the nuances of chocolate. A 'must read' for all chocoholics."
-Emily Luchetti
"The New Taste of Chocolate is a loving tribute to cacao and the
unsung heroes who have nurtured it for centuries, miraculously
transforming it from bean to bar to the latest chocolate creation.
Maricel's meticulously researched book deserves a place of honor in
every serious chocolate lover's library."
-Elaine Gonzalez, author of The Art of Chocolate
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