Table of Contents

Introduction viii
PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1
Chapter 1 Background Information 3
Geography 3, Climate 3, Natural history and conservation 4, History 5, Government and politics 15, Economy 17, People 18, Language 18, Religion 19, Education 20, Culture 20
Chapter 2 Practical Information 23
When to visit 23, Highlights 23, Suggested itineraries 25, Tour operators 26, Red tape 28, Embassies 32, Getting there and away 34, Health 35, Safety 43, Insurance 45, Focus on specific groups 45, What to take 46, Money and budgeting 47, Getting around 48, Accommodation 51, Eating and drinking 52, Public holidays and festivals 56, Shopping 56, Arts and entertainment 57, Photography 58, Media and communications 58, Cultural etiquette 60, Travelling positively 62
PART TWO THE GUIDE 67
Chapter 3 Jerusalem 69
History 69, Getting there and away 70, Orientation 71, Getting around 72, Tourist information and tour operators 72, Where to stay 73, Where to eat 79, Entertainment and nightlife 81, Shopping 83, Other practicalities 85, What to see and do 86
Chapter 4 Jericho 117
History 117, Getting there and away 119, Orientation 119, Getting around 119, Tourist information and tour operators 119, Where to stay 120, Where to eat 121, Entertainment and nightlife 122, Shopping 122, Other practicalities 123, What to see and do 123, Around Jericho 128
Chapter 5 Bethlehem, Beit Sahour and Beit Jala 141
History 142, Getting there and away 143, Orientation 143, Getting around 144, Tourist information and tour operators 144, Where to stay 144, Where to eat 147, Entertainment and nightlife 149, Shopping 150, Other practicalities 150, What to see and do 151, Around Bethlehem 162
Chapter 6 Hebron 169
History 170, Getting there and away 171, Orientation 172, Getting around 172, Tourist information and tour operators 172, Where to stay 173, Where to eat 175, Entertainment 175, Shopping 176, Other practicalities 177, What to see and do 177, Around Hebron 182
Chapter 7 Ramallah 187
History 187, Getting there and away 188, Orientation 189, Getting around 189, Tourist information and tour operators 189, Where to stay 190, Where to eat 191, Entertainment and nightlife 192, Shopping 194, Other practicalities 194, What to see and do 196, North of Ramallah 200
Chapter 8 Nablus 207
History 207, Getting there and away 209, Orientation 209, Getting around 209, Tourist information and tour operators 210, Where to stay 211, Where to eat 212, Entertainment 213, Shopping 215, Other practicalities 215, What to see and do 216, Outside Nablus 224
Chapter 9 Jenin 237
History 238, Getting there and away 239, Getting around 240, Tourist information and tour operators 240, Where to stay 240, Where to eat 241, Entertainment 241, Shopping 241, Other practicalities 242, What to see and do 242, Around Jenin 245
Chapter 10 Gaza 253
History 253, Getting there and away 255, Orientation 257, Getting around 257, Tourist information and tour operators 258, Where to stay 258, Where to eat 259, Entertainment 260, Shopping 260, Other practicalities 260, What to see and do 261, Volunteering 271
Chapter 11 Palestinian Communities in Israel/Palestinians of '48 273
Tour operators 273, Nazareth/Al-Nasira 275, Akka 284, The Jawlan or Golan Heights 290, Haifa 292, Ramleh and Lydda 297, Jaffa 300, The Naqab (Negev) Desert 304
Appendix 1 Language 309
Appendix 2 Further Information 317
Index 323

About the Author

Sarah Irving first visited Palestine in 1996 and since 2001 has travelled between the UK and the West Bank. She has worked as a human rights observer, tour guide and independent writer.

Reviews

'Going where others fear to read (or publish).'
The Sunday Times

I am HUGELY impressed by your superb Palestine guide! Many congratulations - I'll be promoting it far and wide!
Dervla Murphy

'Written with verve, clarity and full of stimulating background details, Sarah Irving's book will delight anybody interested in Palestine - whether they are planning a visit or not.'
Dervla Murphy - Wanderlust magazine

'An excellent guide to a relatively unknown destination for travellers who are aware of the implications that travel to Palestine can have, both on a personal and on a political level.'
www.easyvoyage.co.uk

'Packed with good advice for the independent, inquisitive and intrepid traveller.'
The Sunday Telegraph