Table of Contents

Coastal Geology: 1 Waves and Beaches; 2 Reefs; 3 Rivermouths; Climate and Big Waves: 4 Climatic Cycles, Storminess and Surf; 5 Searching for the Biggest Waves; 6 Controlling the Waves: Every Surfer's Dream?; Coastal Intervention: 7 Coastal Erosion; 8 Coastal Modification and the Surf; 9 Oil Spills and Ecocide; The Planet Bites Back: 10 Tropical Cyclones; 11 Global Warming and the Surf; 12 Tsunamis; Some Books You Might Enjoy; Index; Acknowledgements

About the Author

Dr Tony Butt is a big wave specialist based in the Basque Country, and Post Doctoral Research Fellow at the University of Plymouth, UK. He is the author of Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing, and a regular contributor to European surfing magazines. He runs a wave prediction website, www.swell-forecast.com.