Joyce Goldstein, chef, author, and teacher, is an acknowledged
expert on both Jewish and Mediterranean cooking, as revealed in
such books as Enoteca (0-8118-2825-5) and her unprecedented
exploration of Jewish cuisine from the diaspora begun in Cucina
Ebrai
Ellen Silverman is a well-known food and still-life photgrapher
based in New York City.
For many Jewish families, the menu for Rosh ha-Shannah dinner, from
the chicken soup to the honey cake, is set in stone, and has been
for generations. Nonetheless, you can count on new cookbooks to
appear just before Rosh ha-Shannah, the Jewish New Year
celebration, which begins this year at sundown on Sunday. The older
generation probably needs no help preparing the chopped liver or
the chicken soup, but publishers are hoping a younger generation
now taking to the stove will want a recipe for hallah or some new
menu ideas or, for that matter, the precise requisites for Rosh
ha-Shanah or other holidays. This year, "Cucina Ebraica," by Joyce
Goldstein Might inspire a dinner that strays from the tried and
true, with its recipes for Italian Jewish dishes. Will there be
howls of protest if kreplach, the meat-filled pasta similar to
wontons, are replaced with stroncatelli, a kind of handmade pasta,
as Ms. Goldstein, a chef and former restaraunteur in San Francisco,
suggests? Perhaps. But expect compliments for the chicken roasted
with orange, lemon and ginger; the gratin of potatoes and tomatoes
with garlic and parsley (better done on top of the stove than in
the oven), or the quinces in spiced sugar syrup.
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