Table of Contents

List of Maps vii 1 THE BEST OF BALI & LOMBOK 1

2 BALI IN DEPTH 9

3 BALI & L0MBOK REGIONS & SUGGESTED ITINERARIES 32

4 ACTIVE TRIP PLANNER 40

5 KUTA & LEGIAN 54

6 SEMINYAK 75

7 SANUR & THE NUSA ISLANDS 101

8 THE BUKIT PENINSULA 133

9 UBUD 168

10 CENTRAL MOUNTAINS 203

11 EAST BALI 221

12 NORTH BALI 250

13 WEST BALI 268

14 LOMBOK 283

15 THE GILI ISLANDS 323

16 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO BALI 346

17 BASIC INDONESIAN 362

Index 367

About the Author

After first visiting Bali in 2003, Jen Lin-Liu travels to the island frequently and has written about Bali and Lombok for numerous publications including The New York Times and Travel + Leisure. She is the author of Serve the People: A Stir-Fried Journey Through China (Harcourt, 2008) and a forthcoming book about the food of the Silk Road (Riverhead Press). She lives in Beijing, where she lives in the old traditional neighborhoods near the cooking school and restaurant she owns, Black Sesame Kitchen. Candice Lee has lived in Beijing for the past five years and has worked as a manager and cooking instructor at Black Sesame Kitchen for three years with previous experience working with HIV/AIDS, research, and event managing. She explores, eats, and scrappily finds her way through as many new places as possible (usually by bicycle).