Table of Contents

Introduction vii PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography 3, Climate 4, A brief history 4, Government and politics 12, Economy 13, People 18, Language 19, Religion 19, Education 19, Culture 20, Natural history 24, Conservation 29 Chapter 2 Practical Information 33 When to visit 33, Highlights and suggested itineraries 34, Tour operators 38, Tourist offices 39, Red tape 39, Getting there and away 40, Health 43, Safety 49, Women travellers 49, Disabled travellers 49, Travelling with children 50, What to take 50, Money and budgeting 51, Getting around 52, Accommodation 56, Eating and drinking 57, Public holidays and events 61, Shopping 63, Arts and entertainment 63, Media and communications 64, Business 65, Cultural etiquette 65, Giving something back 65 Chapter 3 Activities and Special Interests 67 Birdwatching 67, Boat charters and day cruising 67, Bus tours 69, Cycling and mountain biking 70, Fishing 70, Gardens, farms and food 72, Golf 72, Kayaking 72, Off-roading and jeep tours 73, River tubing 73, Scuba diving and snorkelling 74, Turtle watching 79, Walking and hiking 79, Whale- and dolphin-watching 83, Yachting 83, Cruise-ship visits 86 PART TWO THE GUIDE 89 Chapter 4 St George's 91 A brief history 91, Getting there and away 93, Getting around 95, Tourist information 95, Where to stay 96, Where to eat and drink 96, Bars and nightlife 98, Shopping 98, Other practicalities 99, What to see and do 100 Chapter 5 The Southwest Peninsula 111 Getting there 111, Getting around 112, Where to stay 112, Where to eat and drink 117, Bars and nightlife 119, Shopping 119, Exploring the southwest peninsula 120, What to do 123, Walks and hikes 125 Chapter 6 Gouyave, Grand Etang and the West 129 Getting there 129, Getting around 130, Where to stay 130, Where to eat and drink 131, Bars and nightlife 131, Exploring the west coast from St George's to Gouyave 131, From the west coast into the interior 136, What to do 139, Walks and hikes 143 Chapter 7 Grenville, Grand Etang and the Southeast 151 Getting there 151, Getting around 151, Where to stay 152, Where to eat and drink 154, From the Grand Etang National Park to Grenville 154, Exploring Grenville 154, Along the southeast coast from Westerhall to Grenville 156, A pretty inland route from St Paul's to St David's 159, What to do 160, Walks and hikes 163 Chapter 8 Sauteurs, Mt St Catherine and the North 169 Getting there 169, Getting around 169, Where to stay 170, Where to eat and drink 170, A journey from Victoria to Sauteurs 171, Sauteurs 173, The Levera Archipelago National Park to Lake Antoine 174, South of Sauteurs and the Mt St Catherine National Park 178, What to do 180, Walks and hikes 184 Chapter 9 Carriacou and Petite Martinique 189 Geography 189, Climate 191, History 191, Carriacou and Petite Martinique today 192, People and population 193, Culture 193, Carriacou 196, Petite Martinique 214 Appendix 1 Accommodation at a Glance 219 Appendix 2 Walks and Hikes 222 Appendix 3 Further Information 225 Index 227

About the Author

When not busy writing Paul Crask dabbles as a freelance scuba-diving instructor, underwater videographer and hiking guide. He's also the author of Bradt's Dominica.