Table of Contents

Introduction vii
PART ONE
GENERAL INFORMATION 1
Chapter 1
Background Information 3
Geography and climate 3, Natural history and conservation 5, History 8, Government and politics 13, Economy 13, People 14, Language 16, Religion 17, Education 18, Culture 19

Chapter 2 Practical Information 23
When to visit 23, Highlights 23, Suggested itineraries 24, Tour operators 25, Red tape 26, Embassies 28, Getting there and away 29, Health 32, Safety 40, Women travellers 40, Gay travellers 41, Disabled travellers 41, Travelling with kids 41, What to take 41, Money 42, Budgeting 43, Getting around 43, Accommodation 48, Eating and drinking 49, Public holidays 51, Shopping 51, Photography 52, Media and communications 53, Business 55, Buying property 55, Cultural etiquette 56, Travelling positively 57

PART TWO
THE GUIDE 59
Chapter 3 Dushanbe and Environs 61
History 61, Getting there and away 63, Getting around 65, Tourist information 66, Local tour operators 67, Where to stay 67, Where to eat and drink 70, Entertainment 74, Shopping 76, Sports/fitness 78, Other practicalities 78, What to see and do 81, Around Dushanbe 85

Chapter 4 Karotegin 91
Faizabad 91, Obi Garm 92, Roghun 92, Gharm 93, Tojikobod 93, Jirgital 94, Tavildara 94

Chapter 5 Fann and Zarafshan Mountains 97
Yagnob Valley 98, Iskanderkul 101, Aini 103, Zarafshan Valley (East) 104, Zarafshan Valley (West) 105, Penjikent 106
Chapter 6 Khujand and Northern Sughd 111
Istaravshan 111, Khujand 115, Isfara 123

Chapter 7 Khatlon 125
Kurgan Teppa 125, Shahr-i Tuz 130, Kurbon Shahid 132, Kulob 133

Chapter 8 West-Central Gorno-Badakhshan 137
Qalai Khum 137, Rushon and the Bartang Valley 138, Khorog 141, Ishkashim 147, Wakhan Corridor 148

Chapter 9 Murghab Plateau 153
The Pamir Highway: Khorog to Murghab 153, Murghab 155, The Pamir Highway: Murghab to the Tajik- Kyrgyz border 160

Appendix 1 Language 163
Appendix 2 Glossary 166
Appendix 3 Further Information 168
Index 172

About the Author

Sophie Ibbotson and Max Lovell-Hoare have lived and worked in Central Asia since 2008. During this period they have become deeply involved in the region's tourism industry, devising national tourism strategies, advising USAid and OSCE on tourism development, promoting the destination through the BBC and print media and working with local companies to improve their offerings to tourists.