Table of Contents

Introduction vii

PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1

Chapter 1 Background Information 3
Geography 3, Climate 4, Natural history 5, Conservation and environmental issues 6, Taiwan's history 11, Government 23, Economy 23, People 24, Language 25, Religion 27, Education 35, Culture 36

Chapter 2 Practical Information 39
When to visit 39, Highlights 39, Suggested itineraries 41, Tour operators 42, Tourist information 44, Red tape 44, Getting there and away 46, Health 47, Safety 50, Women travellers 50, Gay/lesbian travellers 51, Travelling with children 51, Disabled travellers 52, What to take 53, Electricity 53, Money 53, Budgeting 54, Getting around 55, Accommodation 61, Eating and drinking 63, Public holidays and festivals 67, Shopping 69, Arts and entertainment 70, Architecture 71, Sports and activities 73, Photography 77, Media and communications 77, Maps 79, Business 79, Cultural etiquette 80, Travelling positively 81

PART TWO THE GUIDE 83

Chapter 3 Taipei 85
History 85, Getting there and away 86, Getting around 87, Tourist information 90, Where to stay 90, Where to eat and drink 95, Shopping 97, Other practicalities 98, Entertainment 98, What to see and do 99, Taipei suburbs 106, Yangmingshan National Park 112

Chapter 4 North Taiwan 115
Taoyuan Airport 115, Taoyuan City 118, Sanxia and Yingge 120, Wulai 122, North Cross-Island Highway 124, Yilan County 127, The northeast 130, Keelung 132, The north coast 137, Danshui 139

Chapter 5 Hakka Country 147
Hsinchu City 147, North of Hsinchu 154, East of Hsinchu 156, The aboriginal interior 158, Nanzhuang 160, Sanyi 162

Chapter 6 Central Taiwan 167
Taichung 167, Heading south 175, Lugang 180, Heading inland 187, Sun Moon Lake 190, Puli to Lishan 195, Shei-Pa National Park 198, Yushan National Park 202

Chapter 7 Southwest Taiwan 207
Tainan 207, Heading inland from Tainan 224, Tainan's coast 225, Chiayi City 231, Chiayi City to Shizhuo by Road 159A 236, Alishan National Scenic Area 237

Chapter 8 Kaohsiung and Pingtung 243
Kaohsiung 243, Heading north from Kaohsiung 255, Meinong 259, Maolin 263, South Cross-Island Highway 265, Heading east 266, Heading south 271, Kenting National Park 274

Chapter 9 East Taiwan 281
Hualien City 281, Taroko Gorge 286, The East Rift Valley 293, Highway 11: the coast road 299, Taitung City 303

Chapter 10 Minor Islands 309
Penghu County 310, Kinmen County 318, Matsu National Scenic Area 326, Little Liuqiu 332, Green Island 335, Orchid Island 339

Appendix 1 Language 343

Appendix 2 Road and Street Names 349

Appendix 3 Further Information 351

Index 355

Index of advertisers 360

About the Author

Steven Crook moved to Taiwan in 1991 and has been writing about the island's travel destinations and tourism industry since the mid-nineties. He speaks fluent Mandarin.

Reviews

'Recommended reading' Wanderlust 'An insightful and useful addition to the ever-expanding library of publications on the island' Taiwantoday.tw